David The Geek

Getting Pictures into Your Mac

2007-08-24T07:57:00.000-07:00

Taking pictures with most digital cameras is a snap. Taking good digital pictures is another matter entirely.

When you press your digital camera's shutter button, images are typically captured onto small (and removable) memory cards. Even as the price of memory declines, the capacity on these cards rises. You can now capture many hundreds of pictures on relatively inexpensive cards.

In the past, it was a challenge to get digital images onto your computer, where the real fun begins. iPhoto drastically simplifies the process.

Connecting a digital camera

In most cases, you run a direct connection from the digital camera to the Mac by connecting the USB cable supplied with the camera. Turn the camera off and then plug one end of the cable into the camera and the other end into the Mac. Turn the camera back on.

iPhoto opens, assuming that you clicked Yes when the program asked you whether you want to use iPhoto to download photos when a camera is connected. (This question pops up the first time you launch the program.) The way iPhoto takes charge, you won't even have to install the software that came with your camera. Given how cumbersome some of these programs can be, that is a blessing.

If everything went down as it should and iPhoto was called into action, skip ahead to the next section. If you ran into a problem, you can try the following solutions:

Make sure that your camera is turned on and you have a fresh set of batteries.

Because every camera is different, consult the instructions that came with your model to make sure that it's in the proper setting for importing pictures (usually Play mode).

As a last resort, make sure that your camera is compatible with OS X by visiting Apple.com.

Importing images from the camera

When you connect a camera and iPhoto comes to life, the main screen indicates that it's ready to import images.

To transfer images, follow these steps:

1. Type a Roll Name and Description for your photos in the appropriate fields.

2. Determine whether you want to erase the pictures from the camera after they have been copied into iPhoto.

To do so, select the Delete Items from Camera after Importing option. If you're not sure, you can always delete images directly from the camera later.

3. Click Import.

Your pictures are on their way to their new home inside iPhoto's digital shoebox. The process may take several minutes, depending on how many pictures you're moving over. The time depends on a variety of factors, including the number and quality of the images being imported. You'll see the images whiz by as they're being copied.

4. When the program has finished importing, click the Eject button or drag the camera's name from the source list to iPhoto trash, at the bottom of the source list.

5. Turn off and disconnect the camera.

Seeing double? If iPhoto detects a duplicate photo, it asks whether you're sure you want to copy it over again. Click Import to proceed or Don't Import to skip this particular image. To avoid getting this question for each duplicate image, select the Apply to All Duplicates option.

iPhoto will also copy over movie clips from your digital camera, provided that they're compatible with QuickTime. These videos are automatically transferred in the same way as still images.

Importing images from other sources

Not all the pictures in your iPhoto library arrive by direct transfer from your digital camera. Some reach the Mac by the Web, email, CDs or DVDs, flash drives, or memory card readers. Other pictures may already reside someplace else on your hard drive.

To get these pictures into iPhoto, simply drag them into the iPhoto viewing area or onto the iPhoto dock icon. You can drag individual pictures or an entire folder or disk.

If you prefer, choose File --> Import to Library and browse for the files you want to bring over. Then click Import.

iPhoto is compatible with JPEG and TIFF, the most common image file formats, as well as a photo-enthusiast format (available on some digital cameras) known as RAW.

If you haven't bought a digital camera yet and are shooting 35mm film, you can still play in iPhoto's sandbox. Have your neighborhood film processor transfer images onto a CD or post them on the Web. Given where the film processing industry is heading, it'll be thrilled to have your business.

Figuring Out What iDVD Is All About

2007-08-24T07:55:00.000-07:00

DVD is the medium of choice for movies, having replaced videotape in the last few years. DVD stands for Digital Versatile Disc (not digital video disc, which is an older medium that has since bought the farm). The name reinforces the concept that DVD holds anything from video to music to photos and is a versatile medium to use — it is, in fact, the first consumer medium that allows the viewer to interact with the content by using menus to navigate the disc's movies, excerpts, photos, and multiple soundtracks.

DVD authoring is the process of assembling the contents of a DVD and designing the interface — the menus and buttons that allow you to navigate the contents. Authoring used to require expensive digital video and DVD mastering hardware and software and authoring expertise. But with iDVD and a SuperDrive-equipped Mac, you can easily create DVDs to distribute your own videos and presentations.

iDVD is an application that offers tools for creating DVDs that contain menus and buttons to navigate the contents of the discs. iDVD requires a Mac with an Apple SuperDrive, which is a DVD-R (recordable DVD) burner. Besides offering professionally designed menu themes with spectacular special effects, iDVD allows you to grab your photos from iPhoto, import your QuickTime movies from iMovie, and use your music from iTunes.

With iDVD, you can put movies on DVD, of course. But you can add the following features to the DVD besides a menu with a button to play a movie:

Mark sections of a movie you create with iMovie as chapters so that viewers can jump to specific sections. Those chapter titles can be automatically turned into a scene menu to access the specific sections of the movie.

Add nifty movie menus animated with scenes from the movie. You can define up to 30 menus in one iDVD project, and you can define up to six buttons in a menu that link to submenus, slideshows, or movies.

Create a slideshow of your photographs that is accompanied by music. Each slideshow can contain up to 99 images, and a DVD can contain up to 99 slideshows or movies in any combination.

You can fit up to 90 minutes of video on a DVD-R using iDVD, including all still images, backgrounds, and movies. However, if you put more than 60 minutes of video on a DVD-R, the picture quality may suffer because iDVD uses stronger compression with a slower bit rate to fit more than 60 minutes of video on the disc, and both factors reduce overall picture quality. The best approach is to limit each DVD-R to 60 minutes.

DVD is a mass-produced medium, like audio CDs. The discs are read-only — they can't be modified in any way, only viewed. To create even a mass-produced DVD, you have to burn a recordable DVD (DVD-R) with the content. The DVD-R serves as a master to mass-produce the type of DVDs you see in stores. With iDVD, you can burn a DVD-R that you can then use in normal DVD players, and you can also use the DVD-R as a master to provide a service that mass-produces DVDs.

Follow these steps to make a DVD:

1. Import all the content into iDVD.

iDVD enables you to import movies from iMovie projects, QuickTime movies, iPhoto slideshows, and iTunes songs and playlists.

2. Choose a theme for your DVD menus, buttons, and background.

iDVD is supplied with professionally designed themes that you can use to create your own menus and submenus. Themes provide a design that integrates menu elements in a consistent way and makes navigation easier. iDVD allows you to customize these themes into unique menus for your DVDs.

3. Customize the theme with your specific menus, buttons, backgrounds, and content.

After choosing a theme, you assign media elements, such as movies and sounds, to menus, buttons, and backgrounds, to make your DVD project look as professional as a commercial DVD. iDVD gives you a great deal of control over theme elements.

4. Preview and then burn your DVD-R.

iDVD makes previewing the interactive experience of your DVD-R easy, so you don't waste a blank disc on a flawed presentation. You can make changes and adjustments, and preview it again. When you're ready, you can then burn a DVD-R quickly and easily with your SuperDrive-equipped Mac.

You get one chance with a DVD-R — after you burn video to it, you can't rewrite it. Gather everything you want to put on the disc beforehand, so you don't waste a disc.

Listening to Web Radio with iTunes

2007-08-24T07:52:00.000-07:00

Now you can reach radio stations on the Internet that represent nearly every area of the world. You can tune into Japan-A-Radio for the top 40 hits in Japan, Cable Radio UK from the south coast of England, or Radio Darvish for Persian traditional music. You can also check out the local news and sports from your hometown, no matter where you are. You can listen to talk radio and music shows from all over the country and the world.

You can't record or save a song from a radio broadcast without special software. But you can add your favorite stations to your music library or to a playlist to tune in quickly and easily. You can also tune in any Web radio or streaming broadcast if you know the Web address.

Streaming music from the Internet

Apple provides links within iTunes directly to radio stations on the Internet, so you may want to try these first. Follow these steps:

1. Click the Radio option in the Source list.

The iTunes window displays a list of categories of radio stations.

2. Click the Refresh button to retrieve the latest radio stations.

More Web radio stations are added all the time. The Refresh button in the upper-right corner of the iTunes window (taking the place of the Browse button) connects iTunes to the Internet to retrieve the latest list of radio stations for each category.

3. Click the triangle next to a category name to open the list of radio streams in that category.

Radio station broadcasts stream to your computer over the Internet — sections of the audio transfer and play while more sections transfer so that you hear it as a continual stream. Some large radio stations offer more than one stream.

4. Select a stream and click the Play button.

Within seconds, you hear live radio off the Web.

If you use a dialup modem connection to the Internet, you may want to choose a stream with a bit rate of less than 56 Kbps for best results. The Bit Rate column shows the bit rate for each stream.

Saving your favorite stations

Car radios offer preset stations that are activated when you press a button. Of course, you first need to tune in to the station of your choice to set that button. You can do the same with iTunes, and the process is just as easy. Follow these steps:

1. Select a radio station stream.

2. Create a playlist or scroll the Source list to an existing playlist.

3. Drag the stream name over the playlist name.

iTunes places the stream name in the playlist with a broadcast icon next to it. You can click the playlist name and rearrange the playlist as you want, dragging stream names as you would drag song names.

Drag as many streams as you like to as many playlists as you like. Radio streams in your playlists play only if you are connected to the Internet.

To quickly create a playlist from selected radio streams, first select the streams (by holding down Shift or the Command key to make multiple selections) and then choose File --> New Playlist from Selection.

Adding Web broadcasts

Millions of Web sites offer temporary streaming audio broadcasts. A rock group on tour may offer a broadcast of a special concert, available for only one day. You may want to tune in weekly or monthly broadcasts, such as high-tech talk shows, news programs, documentaries, or sporting events — the list is endless. You may even have access to private broadcasts such as corporate board meetings.

All you need to know is the Web address, also known as the URL (Uniform Resource Locator) — the global address of documents and other resources on the Web. You can find most URLs from a Web site or email about a broadcast. Follow these steps to add a Web broadcast to a playlist:

1. Choose Advanced --> Open Stream.

The Open Stream dialog box appears, with a URL text field for typing a Web address.

2. Type the exact, full URL of the stream.

Include the http:// prefix, as in http://64.236.34.141:80/stream/1014.

If you're connected to the Internet, iTunes automatically retrieves the broadcast and places it at the end of your song list.

3. Click OK.

Covering Common Mac Problems

2007-08-24T07:47:00.000-07:00

Your computer won't have to visit the emergency room or undergo major surgery, but a little first aid is probably in order here and there. The solutions to several Mac problems are offered in the following sections.

Fixing a jumpy mouse

The optical-style mice included with the most recent Macs don't get stuck like their ancestors because this kind of critter doesn't use the little dust-collecting rolling ball on its underbelly. However, optical mice don't particularly like glass or reflective surfaces, so if you find your mouse on one, use a mouse pad or slip a piece of paper underneath it.

If your mouse just doesn't respond, unplug it from the USB port and then plug it in again, just to make sure that the connection is snug. If you have a wireless mouse, make sure that the batteries are fresh.

Dealing with a stuck CD

When your Mac won't spit out a disc, take a stab at one of these fixes:

Quit the program that's using the disc, and then press Eject on the keyboard.

Open a Finder window, and click the little Eject icon in the sidebar. Or, try dragging the disc icon from the Mac desktop to the trash.

Log out of your user account (under the Mac menu), and then press Eject on the keyboard.

Restart the computer while holding down the mouse button.

Fixing your Mac's clock

If your computer can no longer keep track of the time and date, its internal backup battery may have bit the dust. You can't replace the battery yourself, so you'll have to contact the Apple store or visit an authorized service provider.

Making programs open nonnative files

The Mac makes certain assumptions about which application ought to open a particular file when summoned. But say that you want the Adobe programs Photoshop and Reader to be responsible for JPEGs and PDFs, and Mac's own word processor, TextEdit, to take care of Word DOC duties.

Here's what to do:

1. Highlight the icon of the program that you want to be opened by a different application and press Command+I.

2. In the Get Info panel that appears, click the right-facing triangle next to Open With and choose the application to handle the document from here on out.

Alternatively, access the Open With command by highlighting the file icon in question and choosing File --> Open With. You can also bring up the Get Info pane from the same menu. Still another way to get to Open With: Press Control while clicking the icon (or right-click if your mouse has two buttons).

3. If you want the application to open each and every file you beckon in the future, click Change All.

Handling kernel clink

Out of the blue, you are asked to restart your computer — in numerous languages, no less. Your machine has been hit with a kernel panic. The probable cause is corrupted or incompatible software.

The good news is that a system restart usually takes care of the problem with no further harm. If not, try removing memory or hardware you've recently added. Or, if you think some new software you installed may have been the culprit, head to the software publisher's Web site and see whether a downloadable fix or upgrade is available.

Fixing DNS problems

If you're surfing the Web with Safari or another browser and get a message about a DNS entry not being found, you typed the wrong Web address or URL, the site in question no longer exists (or never did), or the site is having temporary problems. DNS is computer jargon for Domain Name System. Similar messages may be presented as a 404 not found on this server error.

Curing the trash can blues

In the physical world, you may try and throw something out of your trash but can't because the rubbish gets stuck to the bottom of the can. The virtual trash can on your Mac sometimes suffers a similar fate: A file refuses to budge when you click Empty Trash under the Finder menu.

Try junking the files by holding down the Option key when you choose Empty Trash.

A file can refuse to go quietly for several reasons. For starters, you can't delete an item that is open somewhere else on your computer, so make sure that it's indeed closed. Moreover, you may be trying to ditch a file to which you do not have sufficient permission. The other most likely explanation is that a lockedfile is in the trash. You can unlock it by choosing File --> Get Info and making sure to deselect the Locked check box.

Working with Aliases in Mac OS X

2007-08-24T07:41:00.000-07:00

An alias is a tiny file that automatically opens the file that it represents. Although an alias is technically an icon, it's actually an icon that opens another icon automatically. You can put aliases in convenient places, such as on the Desktop, to help you easily open programs and files that you access often.

In effect, Microsoft stole the alias feature from Apple (if you've used Windows, you may know aliases as shortcuts). However, aliases usually don't break when you move or rename the original file; shortcuts do.

An alias is different from a duplicated file. For example, the Microsoft Word 2004 application uses 19.4 megabytes (MB) of disk space. A duplicate of Microsoft Word 2004 would give you two files, each requiring nearly 20 megabytes of space on your hard drive. An alias of Microsoft Word 2004, on the other hand, uses a mere 52 kilobytes (KB).

Aliases can open any file or folder on any disk from anywhere else on any disk — which is a very good trick. But aliases are great for many other reasons:

Convenience: Aliases enable you to make items appear to be in more than one place, which on many occasions is exactly what you want to do. For example, keeping an alias of your word processor on your Desktop and another on the Dock is convenient. You may even want a third alias of it in your Documents folder for quick access. Aliases enable you to open your word processor quickly and easily without navigating into the depths of your Applications folder each time that you need it.

Flexibility and organization: You can create aliases and store them anywhere on your hard disk to represent the same document in several different folders. This is a great help when you need to file a document that can logically be stored in any one of several files. For example: If you write a memo to Fred Smith about the Smythe Marketing Campaign to be executed in the fourth quarter, which folder does the document go in? Smith? Smythe? Marketing? Memos? 4th Quarter? Correct answer: With aliases, it can go in all of them if you like. Then you can find the memo wherever you look, instead of guessing which folder you filed it in.

With aliases, it doesn't matter. You can put the actual file in any folder and then create aliases of the file, placing them in any other applicable folder.

Integrity: Some programs must remain in the same folder as their supporting files and folders. Many Classic programs, for example, don't function properly unless they're in the same folder as their dictionaries, thesauruses, data files (for games), templates, and so on. Thus, you can't put the icon for those programs on the Desktop without impairing their functionality. An alias lets you access a program like that from anywhere on your hard disk.

Creating aliases

When you create an alias, its icon looks the same as the icon that it represents, but the suffix alias is tacked onto its name and a tiny arrow called a badge appears in the lower-left corner of its icon. Figure 1 shows both an alias and its parent icon (that is, the icon that opens if you open the alias).

Figure 1: An alias icon (right) and its parent.

To create an alias for an icon, do one of the following:

Click the parent icon and choose File --> Make Alias.

Click the parent icon and press Command+L.

Click any file or folder, press and hold down the Command and Option keys, and then drag the file or folder while continuing to hold down the Command and Option keys.

alias

Click an icon while holding down the Control key and then choose the Make Alias command from the contextual menu that appears.

The alias appears in the same folder as its parent.

Deleting aliases

Deleting an alias is an easy chore. To delete an alias, simply drag it onto the Trash icon on the Dock. That's it! You can also Control-click it and choose Move to Trash from the contextual menu that appears, or select the icon and use the keyboard shortcut Command+Delete.

Deleting an alias does not delete the parent item. (If you want to delete the parent item, you have to go hunt it down and kill it yourself.)

Hunting down an alias' parent

Suppose that you create an alias of a file, and later you want to delete both the alias and its parent file — but you can't find the parent file? What do you do? Well, you can use the Finder's Find function (try saying that three times real fast) to find it, but here are three faster ways to find the parent icon of an alias:

Select the alias icon and choose File --> Show Original.

Select the alias icon and use the keyboard shortcut Command+R.

Control-click the alias icon and choose Show Original from the contextual menu.

Looking into Routed versus Routing Protocols

2007-08-24T07:36:00.000-07:00

When you review routers and their protocols, a good place to start is the difference between a routed protocol and a routing protocol. Knowing the difference between these two protocols is fundamental to understanding how routers route.

Networked devices communicate over routes, which are paths between sending devices and receiving devices. A networked device learns about a route between it and another device in a variety of ways:

Manually: A network administrator can manually configure a route.

Pull: Devices can send out polling messages or "probes" to discover the route to a destination.

Push: Devices can send out route information about routes it knows.

Regardless whether the route information is manually entered, discovered, or received from another device, the information learned is stored in the routing table for later use.

Inside versus outside

A routing protocol sends and receives routing information packets to and from other routers. A routed protocol can be routed by a router, which means that it can be forwarded from one router to another. Yes, there are protocols that can't be routed, such as NetBEUI (Network Basic Input Output System Extended User Interface).

That a routed protocol can be routed may seem obvious, but unless you know how to differentiate it from a routing protocol, you may have trouble with the wording for some questions on the exam.

A protocol is a set of rules that defines how two devices communicate with one another. It also defines the format for the packets used to transmit data over communications lines. A routed protocol contains the data elements required for a packet to be sent outside its host network or network segment. In other words, a routed protocol can be routed. Protocols used to communicate routing information between routers within an autonomous system are Interior Gateway Protocols (IGP), which are routing protocols, but not routed protocols.

Routing protocols gather and share the routing information used to maintain and update routing tables. That routing information is in turn used to route a routed protocol to its final destination. Routing Information Protocol (RIP) and Interior Gateway Routing Protocol (IGRP) are the routing protocols you need to know for the exam. If you can remember what the abbreviations mean, you'll remember that they are routing protocols because they have routing in their names. Remember, too, that they are not routed protocols.

In short, routed protocols route your data and routing protocols send routing updates between routers about the status of the network so that your routed protocol data can be routed. Got that? No? Well, try this to help keep it straight:

1. Routed protocols get routed.

2. Routing protocols are for updating (the info about the routes over which routed protocols are routed).

Examples of routed protocols are IP and IPX, and examples of routing protocols are RIP and IGRP.

A routing we will go

Routing is the process of moving data along a path from a source to a destination. The complexity of this process involves finding the most efficient route from a multitude of available routes. Routing occurs at the Network layer (Layer 3).

To assist itself in making its routing decisions, the router builds routing tables to store information about routes to networks it has previously discovered. Most routers keep an entry, known as the default route, in their table to be used when the router doesn't have an explicit route for a packet. Figure 1 shows both what a routing table contains as well as where it fits into a network. Notice that it consists of network addresses and the interface to which each device, associated with an address, is connected.

Figure 1: A routing table of a network router.

Routing types you need to know for the exam

As far as the CCNA exam goes, there are three types of routing: static, dynamic, and default. Details about these routing types appear in the following sections.

Static routes: One-lane roads

Static routes are fixed routes that are manually entered by the administrator into the router's configuration. If a static route is entered into the configuration, it must be manually updated should the network topology change. Not that the topology of the network is likely to change too frequently, but you may decide to change the segmenting structure or make other topology-level changes. When changes occur, the administrator must update the router configuration to include the changes, which is why static routing is not generally used in a large network. The time required to maintain the routing tables can become a burden.

Static routes are generally used if the internetwork, the part of the network that lies beyond the router, is accessible through only one path. A network with only a single path to the rest of the internetwork is known as a stub network. Static routes are also used for security reasons because they allow the administrator to restrict knowledge of the network from outside sources. A static route is configured on the router with a command like this:

Router(config)#ip route 192.168.1.0 255.255.255.0 192.168.101.1 3

This example contains the command (ip route) and the IP address of the destination network, the subnet mask, the IP address of the next hop router, and an administrative distance (more on that later).

Using the previous command example, the key elements of the static route configuration command are (memorize these for the exam):

ip route: This is the command used to designate a static route.

destination address: In this example, 192.168.1.0 is the IP address of the destination network.

subnet mask: 192.168.1.0 is a Class C IP address and is using the default subnet mask for Class C addresses, 255.255.255.0.

next hop: Following the subnet mask is the address of the next hop router, 192.168.1.1.

administrative distance: This is a number between 0 and 255 that indicates how well the route can be trusted. The higher the number, the lower the trust. An administrative distance of 120 falls about midrange on the trustworthiness scale. So, as indicated by the 3 in the ip route command, this route is very trustworthy.

A dynamic personality

Dynamic routing is the process by which a network adapts automatically to the changes in topology or traffic as those changes occur. To be successful, dynamic routing requires timely maintenance of routing tables. The routing protocol used defines how this occurs and includes such information as when, what, and how the updates are sent.

When all else fails

A default route is very much like a static route. The administrator enters the default route, and it becomes the default path the router uses to forward packets for which it knows no other route to use. Without a default route, packets with unknown destinations are dropped.

When no specific next hop is listed in the routing table for a particular type of packet, the router uses its default route, a preassigned route that is generally available.

Unmasking the Subnet Mask

2007-08-24T07:32:00.000-07:00

With the rapid growth of the Internet and the ever-increasing demand for new addresses, the number of available networks and hosts in the standard address class structure can be expanded by borrowing bits from the host portion and using them to allow for more networks. Under this addressing scheme, called subnetting, separating the network and host requires a special mechanism called a subnet mask. A subnet mask, which contains a binary bit pattern of ones and zeros, is applied to an address to extract the network ID for purposes of determining whether an address is on the local network. If not, the address is switched or routed on.

The function of a subnet mask is to extract the network ID portion of an IP destination address and determine whether an IP address exists on the local network or whether it must be routed outside the local network. If the extracted network ID matches the local network ID, the destination is located on the local network. However, if they don't match, the message must be routed outside the local network. The process used to apply the subnet mask involves Boolean algebra to filter out nonmatching bits.

Boolean nightmares

Don't worry; you don't need to relive your past-life algebraic nightmares to pass the CCNA exam. Boolean algebra is a process that applies binary logic to yield binary results. What a relief, huh?

Working with subnet masks, you need only four basic principles of Boolean algebra:

1 and 1 = 1

1 and 0 = 0

0 and 1 = 0

0 and 0 = 0

Or in other words, the only way you can get a result of a 1 is to combine 1 and 1. Everything else ends up as 0.

The process of combining binary values with Boolean algebra is called anding.

Subnet masks

There are default standard subnet masks for Class A, B, and C addresses. Table 1 lists the commonly used subnet masks for each IP address class.

Table 1: Standard IP Class Default Subnet Masks

*Address Class*	*Subnet Mask*
Class A	255.0.0.0
Class B	255.255.0.0
Class C	255.255.255.0

The subnet mask is like a strainer or filter that is applied to a message's destination IP address. Its objective is to determine whether the local network is the destination network. It goes like this:

1. If a destination IP address is 206.175.162.21, you know that it's a Class C address and its binary equivalent is 11001110 10101111 10100010 00010101.

2. The default standard Class C subnet mask is 255.255.255.0 and its binary equivalent is 11111111 11111111 11111111 00000000.

3. When these two binary numbers (the IP address and the subnet mask) are combined using Boolean algebra (anding), the network ID of the destination network is the result:

206.175.162.21 11001110 10101111 10100010 00010101

and

255.255.255.0 11111111 11111111 11111111 00000000

yields

11001110 10101111 10100010 00000000

4. The result is the network ID of 206.175.162.0.

Subnet masks apply only to Class A, B, or C IP addresses.

Segmenting a Network with a Router

2007-08-24T07:27:00.000-07:00

Segmenting a LAN with a router may not be the least expensive way to go, but it does have its benefits. You can expect to find questions on the benefits of segmenting a network with a router on the CCNA exam.

There are definitely less expensive ways to segment a network, such as with a bridge, and there are certainly faster, simpler ways, such as with a switch, but a router can provide benefits these devices cannot.

Why segment a network?

Here are some of the general benefits of segmenting a LAN, regardless of how that was accomplished:

Keeps local traffic local: Breaking up a network into smaller segments reduces congestion on the network by reducing the overall traffic loads.

Increases the bandwidth available to each user: Bandwidth is a shared entity, but each segment and its users have full use of the bandwidth available. For example, if there are 100 users on a 100 Mbps segment, each user has an average of 1 Mbps of available bandwidth. If this same segment were further segmented into 10 segments with 10 users on each segment, however, then every user would have an average of 10 Mbps of available bandwidth.

Fewer collisions: In general, traffic tends to stay within a segment, and less traffic is routed beyond the segment to contend for access to the backbone.

Reduces Ethernet distance limitations: An Ethernet network has inherent distance limitations. When a network is segmented with a router (and only a router; not a bridge, and not a switch), the beginning point from which the maximum distance for the cabling is determined is re-established.

Segmenting a LAN with a router

The CCNA exam focuses on why you would segment a LAN. There are several ways to segment a LAN — with a bridge, a switch, or a router. Just in case you're curious, how you segment a LAN with a router involves some knowledge of the network, its traffic, and topology. You can just pick a point in the LAN and plug the router in, but most likely, unless you are extremely lucky, you won't see much improvement in the performance of the LAN.

Routers are used to segment fairly large networks, in terms of geography and number of nodes, or very high volume networks. In most cases, you are more likely to segment a LAN with a bridge or switch.

Here are some things to consider before you segment a LAN with a router:

A router can segment a LAN that includes different media types. For example, a LAN may have both Category 5 and Thinnet (coaxial) cable connecting to fiber optic cabling.

A router can interconnect LANs that are using different protocols, provided they are all routable.

A router does increase latency by adding the delay caused by the router examining each packet entirely before sending it on.

A router can also provide more than one active link or route to a destination. On a larger LAN, this can provide route diversity and redundancy, which are always good things.

The specific benefits of segmenting with a router

So what are the benefits of using a router to segment a LAN, and why would anyone want to do it? Excellent questions, and ones you're sure to find on the CCNA exam. There are several reasons, including that you simply have money to burn. The real reasons, the ones you should know for the exam, can be summarized as:

Reduced size of broadcast domains: Routers block broadcasts unless specifically instructed to forward them.

Smaller networks: Routers create smaller networks, as opposed to dividing a large network into smaller pieces of itself.

Flexible addressing: Routers segment a network by using logical, rather than physical, addresses. For example, a bridge uses the MAC (Media Access Control) or physical address to make its addressing decisions, whereas the router uses the logical or IP address.

Better administration: A system administrator has more management tools available when using a router, thanks to the increased memory in a router and its ability to make routing decisions based on a multitude of factors.

Top Ten Programs To Download On A Mac

2007-08-12T19:57:00.000-07:00

Top Ten Programs To Download On A Mac

We give you a rundown of the best free programs to download on a Mac.

Step 1:
Firefox
Mac OS X comes with Apple's own web browser, Safari and while it's a very good browser, a lot of the internet was designed to run with Microsoft's Internet Explorer instead, so sometimes you'll come across problems getting certain websites to run properly.
Step 2:
Internet Explorer
The simple way around this would be to download Internet Explorer for the Mac - and you can do that at www.microsoft.com/mac. The trouble is, Microsoft stopped fully supporting the Mac version of Internet Explorer back in 2000 and frankly while it's still worth having as a backup, it's now out of date.
A better option is Mozilla's Firefox browser, which you can find at www.mozilla.com/en-US. It's similar to Internet Explorer so it's generally more compatible with the internet than Safari is, and on top of that it's an open source project, which means that it's kept up to date by hundreds of people around the world.
Step 3:
MSN Messenger
OS X also comes with iChat which is Apple's own instant messaging and video chat program. It works with the most popular messaging services (including AOL and Jabber) but it doesn't work with Microsoft's Windows Live Messenger (or MSN Messenger as it used to be known), which many PC owners still use. You can get a Mac version of Microsoft Messenger at www.microsoft.com/mac and while it doesn't have as many features as the PC version, it will let you talk to Windows Messenger users and will also keep on your Hotmail account.
Step 4:
Skype
Another service that replaces iChat is Skype. Again, I'm recommending this as many PC users have it and if you want to talk to them, you're going to need it. You can download it at www.skype.com. If you bought your Mac in 2006 or later, it will have a built in iSight camera for use with iChat, but it can also be used for Skype, which gives you free video chats over the internet and lets you make cheap international phone calls to conventional phones. If you don't have an iSight camera, there's a list of compatible plug-in webcams on the Skype website - and the ability to use plug in cameras is something you won't find in natively iChat.
Step 5:
VLC
OS X's default video player is Quicktime, and while it's pretty good, it can't handle many of the popular video file formats you might come across, so you should download VLC Media Player from www.videolan.org/vlc. This program is not only better at playing video files than Quicktime is, but it'll also cope with almost any file format you throw at it - except for the latest versions or Windows Media and RealPlayer files.
Step 6:
Windows Media Player and Flip4Mac
Windows Media Player. Microsoft stopped supporting the Mac at Media Player number 9 - they're onto version 10 on the PC. You can still download Media Player 9 for the Mac at Microsoft.com/mac but they've also teamed up with software house Telestream to offer their Flip4Mac program for free. Flip4Mac adds Windows Media Support to Quicktime and works well, if a little slowly.
Step 7:
Real Player
The last of our video programs is Real Player, which you can get at uk.real.com/player. While VLC already supports this kind of file, you get better playback and internet video streaming with the standalone program.
Step 8:
Audio Hijack
Audio Hijack lets you record the sound output from pretty much any program running on your Mac. What that means in practice is that you can record internet radio, DVD soundtracks or streaming audio broadcasts and save them to do with as you will. What makes Audio Hijack really special is that only records from one source at a time, so your recording won't be spoilt by system beeps or messenger alerts if they happen. Audio Hijack also features a few tools for improving the sound of poor quality recordings. You can find it at www.rogueamoeba.com/audiohijack. The free version only lets you record 10 minutes of audio, but that's enough for most uses and it is then up to you if you want to spend the £9 or so it takes to get the full version.
Step 9:
Backlight
One area that OS X has always beat Windows in is appearance. Backlight is another tool that will give your desktop the looks to leave Vista users green with envy. Download it from freshsqueeze.com/products/freeware and it will use your current screensaver as you desktop background. It may not sound like much, but having the Flurry or those soothing beach scenes sliding smoothly across your desktop beats dull old wallpaper any day.
Step 10:
Stuffit Expander
OK, I slightly boring one this, but useful none the less. Stuffit Expander is a free program that makes it easier to expand many of the compressed files you'll download from the internet. It used to come bundled with older versions of OS X, and although the internet and Macs in particular are moving towards .Zip and .DMG as a standard for compressed files, Stuffit will come in handy whenever you come across anything different. Get it from www.stuffit.com/mac.

VideoJug: Top Ten Programs To Download On A Mac

How To Clean A Laptop?

2007-08-12T19:49:00.000-07:00

How to safely clean your laptop computer.

You Will Need

Step 1:: Clean; Make sure your computer is turned off and unplugged before you start to clean. First we'll blow away any excess surface dust with a can of compressed air. To clean the keyboard, use your cotton buds to remove large particles of dirt between your keys, then blow away smaller particles with the can of compressed air. You can then wipe the surface of the keys with a damp cloth to remove the surface dirt, but ensure that the cloth you use is not excessively damp, as fluid between your keys can damage your computer.
Put a small amount of the cleaning fluid onto a soft cloth and clean the screen using a smooth, continuous motion to help avoid streaks. You may apply a gentle amount of pressure, but make sure you do it evenly and don't press thin objects like a single finger against the screen.
To clean the body of the computer, use a similar method to the screen. Spray your solution onto the cloth and wipe the casing. A continuous motion is not so important here as streaks will not be as apparent here as they will on the screen.
To clean the ports on your computer, carefully wipe the inside of each port with a cotton bud then spray each of them with the compressed air. If you have access to your computer's fan, hold it still with a cotton bud and spray it with compressed air. If you don't hold it, the air will cause it to spin and could break it by making it spin faster than it's motor can cope with.
To clean the CD or DVD drive, open the drawer and spray the compressed air inside. If you can see the laser lens, be careful not to touch it as this can damage it. Commercial CD lens cleaners can also be bought and used to clean this area if your computer is having trouble reading CD's or DVD's.
Now your laptop should be good as new. Done

VideoJug: How To Clean A Laptop,

How Can I transfer music from Rhapsody 4.0 to an iPod?

2007-08-12T19:35:00.000-07:00

Can I transfer Rhapsody 4 music to my iPod?

You can use Rhapsody to transfer your own imported MP3 and AAC files to most iPods. Unfortunately, the iPod is not a supported device for any music subscription service, including Rhapsody To Go, and does not support the transfer of tracks purchased from Rhapsody.

To transfer imported tracks to your iPod:

1. Open Rhapsody and sign in.

2. Attach your iPod, and wait for its icon to appear in the Sources area.

3. Drag and drop tracks onto the Apple iPod icon:

Note: If you accidentally drag any subscription tracks onto the iPod, you will be prompted to buy them at this step. Go ahead and cancel this action, because you will not be able to transfer purchased tracks to the iPod.

4. Watch the progress of your transfer in the bar at the bottom of the Display area:

5. When the transfer is complete, right-click the Apple iPod icon and choose Disconnect Device:

6. Disconnect your iPod, and enjoy!

How Can I transfer music from Rhapsody 3.x to an iPod?

2007-08-12T19:31:00.000-07:00

What can I transfer from Rhapsody to my iPod?

You can transfer your own MP3 and AAC files to most iPods. You will first need to set up your iPod to work with compatible Rhapsody files. Once that is done, follow the instructions for transferring tracks to a portable device.

Unfortunately, the iPod is not a supported device for any subscription services at this time. Because Rhapsody To Go is a subscription service, you cannot transfer downloaded subscription () tracks or streamed subscription () tracks to an iPod. The iPod is not a supported device for Rhapsody purchased music either.

Why do I get a "Computer Not Authorized" error in Rhapsody 4?

2007-08-12T19:29:00.000-07:00

Why do I get the error "Computer Not Authorized: This computer has not been Authorized to play Rhapsody subscription tracks. To Authorize, Select My Account > Authorize Computer from the Rhapsody Menus"?

When you attempt to play streamed subscription tracks in Rhapsody 4, or transfer them to a portable MP3 player, you may receive this error, even though your computer is authorized:

Computer Not Authorized -- This computer has not been authorized to play Rhapsody subscription tracks. To authorize, Select My Account > Authorize Computer from the Rhapsody menus.

Try the following solutions, attempting playback or transfer again after each one. You don't have to do all of these. If the first doesn't work, try the next, until you find your solution.

Solution 1: Check if you are signed in and your computer is authorized.

Double-check that you are signed in and your computer is authorized.

Solution 2: Download the track before you transfer it.

If the issue occurs when you try to transfer a streamed track to a portable device, download the track first:

1. Right-click on the streamed subscription track in My Library and select Download Tracks.

This changes the track to a downloaded subscription track.

2. Drag and drop the downloaded subscription track(s) to your device.

Solution 3: Troubleshoot your Helix Components.

This involves deleting your Helix Licenses and then, if necessary, updating Helix Components.

Solution 4: Run the Windows Media Security Component Upgrade.

The Windows Media Security Component Upgrade works only on Windows XP & 2000 operating systems. Do not perform this step if you have Windows 98 or Windows ME.

Solution 5: Rename the DRM folder.

The Windows DRM folder contains licenses for secure media files such as your Rhapsody tracks. Renaming the DRM folder can help fix these licenses.

Rhapsody installation freezes at 99%?

2007-08-12T19:19:00.000-07:00

I tried to install Rhapsody, but it stopped. When I looked, it said it was 99% complete. Why?

The Rhapsody installation may freeze at 99% and never complete the installation. This can occur if Rhapsody access to the Internet is blocked, or there is a problem installing the Digital Rights Management (DRM) components.

To resolve, try the following solutions, attempting the installation again after each one. You don't have to do all of these! If the first doesn't work, try the next, until you find your solution.

Solution 1: Reset your Internet Explorer settings and configure your firewall to allow Rhapsody Internet access.

Follow the steps in Trouble installing, signing in, or connecting? Check this software, then try installing Rhapsody again.

Solution 2: Set Internet Explorer to automatically detect settings.

1. Open Microsoft Internet Explorer.
2. Click the Tools menu, then choose Internet Options.
3. Click the Connections tab.
4. Click the LAN Settings button. The Local Area Network (LAN) Settings window opens.
5. Check the Automatically detect settings box.
6. Click OK twice.
7. Close Internet Explorer, and try to install Rhapsody again.

Solution 3: Close other programs on your computer.

Try improving performance by closing all other open applications and programs running in the background.

Solution 4: Remove Internet Explorer cookies and temporary files.

Follow these steps, then try installing Rhapsody again.

Solution 5: Update your Windows Components.

1. Close out of Rhapsody, Windows Media Player, Internet Explorer, and any other open programs.
2. Update your Windows Components (for Windows XP & 2000 operating systems only. Do not perform this step if you have Windows 98 or Windows ME). Once you have done these steps, try again.

Solution 6: Uninstall, then reinstall Windows Media Player 10.

Click here for instructions. Once you have done these steps, try installing Rhapsody again.

Solution 7: Rename the DRM folder.

The Windows DRM folder contains licenses for secure media files such as your Rhapsody tracks. Renaming the DRM folder can help fix these licenses. Once you have done these steps, try installing Rhapsody again.

Solution 8: Troubleshoot your Helix Components.

This involves deleting your Helix Licenses and then, if necessary, updating Helix Components. Once you have done these steps, try installing Rhapsody again.

Solution 9: Update to the latest Rhapsody version.

1. Launch and log in to Rhapsody.
2. Select Help > Check for Updates.
3. Follow the prompts to update to the latest version of Rhapsody.

Getting "unable to install required components", "DRM", or "WMDRM" errors when you update Rhapsody?

2007-08-12T19:17:00.000-07:00

Rhapsody invited me to upgrade and now I'm getting one of the following errors:
- "Unable to install required components"
- "Rhapsody was unable to acquire needed DRM information from the computer"
- "WMDRM corrupt"

To resolve this issue, please follow the instructions for your operating system:

Windows 2000

Rhapsody 4.0.2.154 is not compatible with your operating system. However, we have released a new build, Rhapsody 4.0.2.160 that is compatible. Please uninstall Rhapsody and install the latest version using the instructions below.

1. Click the Windows Start button and point to Settings > Control Panel (In Windows XP: Start > Control Panel ).
2. Click Add or Remove Programs.
3. Find and select Rhapsody from the list of programs.
4. Click the Change/Remove button.
5. Follow the on-screen prompts.
6. If you get a prompt that Rhapsody has already been removed, click OK.
7. Go to http://www.rhapsody.com/-software to download the latest version of Rhapsody.

Windows XP Service Pack 1

Please update to Service Pack 2. Then run the updates for Windows XP Service Pack 2 including Windows Media Player 11.

1. Open Internet Explorer
2. Click Tools > Windows Update
3. Follow the onscreen prompts.
4. Once Microsoft has determined what updates you need, it will present you with a list of available updates. Ensure Service Pack 2 is selected.
5. Allow Windows to update. Once it has finished updating, it will prompt you to restart.
6. After your computer reboots, perform the above steps again for ALL Windows Updates. Make sure to install Windows Media Player 11.
7. Install Rhapsody again.

Windows XP Service Pack 2

Update to Windows Media Player 11, then run the updates for Windows XP Service Pack 2.

1. Open Internet Explorer
2. Click Tools > Windows Update
3. Follow the onscreen prompts.
4. Once Microsoft has determined what updates you need, you will see a list of available updates. Ensure that Windows Media Player 11 is selected.
5. Allow Windows to update. Once it has finished updating, it will prompt you to restart.
6. After your computer reboots, perform the above steps again for ALL Windows Updates before installing Rhapsody again.

If you still receive DRM errors when trying to install

If you still receive DRM errors when trying to install after updating your operating system, try the article applicable to your error below:

Rhapsody is unable to install required components from the Rhapsody server
'Windows Media Licenses (WMDRM) are corrupt' error
'Could not get the DRM info, cannot log in' error when starting Rhapsody

How do I transfer music from Rhapsody 4 to my device?

2007-08-12T19:06:00.000-07:00

How do I transfer music from Rhapsody 4 to a portable device or MP3 player like the Sansa e200R Rhapsody?

In brief: drag and drop tracks, albums, album cover images, and playlists onto the image of your MP3 player in the Sources area of Rhapsody 4. We use the Sansa e200R Rhapsody in the example below.

Before you start: If you have a Rhapsody To Go subscription and a compatible portable device, any streamed Rhapsody tracks you drag to your device will be automatically downloaded. If you do not have a Rhapsody To Go subscription, or if any of the tracks are unavailable for download without purchase, the "Purchase" dialog will open. Please see What types of files can I transfer from Rhapsody 4 to my Rhapsody MP3 Player? for details.

1. Open Rhapsody and sign in.

2. Attach your device to your computer.

3. After you see the device appear in the Sources area, drag and drop tracks onto the device icon. When tracks are being transferred from My Library, it looks like this:

4. The progress of your transfer is shown in the bar at the bottom of the Display area:

5. When the transfer is complete, right-click the device icon and choose Disconnect Device:

Note: If you get a Rhapsody was unable to disconnect your device error, use the Microsoft utility called Unplug or Eject Hardware or Safely Remove Hardware, visible in the lower-right corner of your computer screen.

For more details, check out the Transfer Tracks to a Portable Device Help topic, which includes a Flash movie and text instructions on manually transferring tracks and playlists to your portable device, as well as a Flash movie and text instructions on setting up Library Transfer (like synching, it means transferring your entire Rhapsody library to your device).

Note: In Rhapsody 3, the Mixer was used to transfer tracks to a portable device.

Configuring WEP or WPA Encryption on a Networked Mac

2007-08-11T12:46:00.000-07:00

You can set up either WEP (Wireless Encryption Protocol) or WPA (Wi-Fi Protected Access) encryption to make your wireless network more secure. WPA encryption is much more secure than WEP encryption. You should use WPA-PSK or WPA Personal encryption on your home wireless network unless you have computers that only support WEP encryption.

Setting up WEP encryption

Use the following steps to set up WEP encryption on a Mac:

1. Choose Apple --> System Preferences to open the System Preferences window.

2. Click the Network icon to open the Network dialog box.

3. Choose AirPort in the Show menu and choose Preferred Networks in the By Default, Join menu.

4. Select a network in the list of networks and click Edit.

5. In the Wireless Security menu, choose a WEP option. Choose ASCII or HEX as appropriate for your network.

If you're not sure whether to choose ASCII or HEX, or if your network uses 64-bit WEP encryption, choose WEP Password instead.

6. Enter the WEP key in the password text box.

7. Click OK and then quit Network Preferences.

To make sure you're typing the WEP key correctly, temporarily select the Show Password check box so that you can see the characters you are typing. Make sure no one is looking over your shoulder when you do this.

Configuring WPA encryption

Follow these steps to configure WPA encryption:

1. Choose Apple --> System Preferences to open the System Preferences window.

2. Click the Network icon to open the Network dialog box.

3. Choose AirPort in the Show drop-down menu and choose Preferred Networks in the By Default, Join menu.

4. Select a network in the list of networks and click Edit.

5. In the Wireless Security menu, choose WPA Personal.

WPA Personal is equivalent to WPA-PSK, which is used by many wireless access points. WPA Enterprise requires that a RADIUS server be running on your network, something your home network is not likely to have.

6. Enter the WPA password in the password text box.

7. Click OK and then quit Network Preferences.

Special Wi-Fi Considerations for Macs

2007-08-11T12:41:00.000-07:00

Macintosh computers have been at the forefront of wireless networking with AirPort, Apple's name for the Wi-Fi technology used in modern Macs. Most new Macs have AirPort Extreme — a newer, faster version of AirPort — built right in. If you buy a new Mac without AirPort Extreme you may be able to install a card. By using AirPort or AirPort Extreme, you can connect your Mac to any 802.11b/g Wi-Fi network.

Some Macs —such as the Mac mini — can only be upgraded by an Apple repair professional. When you buy a new Mac, spend a little extra money to get an AirPort Extreme card preinstalled — it's worth it.

Installing an AirPort card in an iBook

Follow these steps to install an AirPort card in an iBook:

1. Shut down your iBook and remove the battery.

To remove the battery, use a coin to turn the lock screw on the bottom of the iBook to the unlocked position.

2. On the front of your iBook, push the keyboard release tabs (see Figure 1) towards the front of the iBook and gently lift the keyboard out of the chassis. You don't need to disconnect the keyboard; simply rest it upside down on the touch pad.

Figure 1: The keyboard release tabs.

3. Locate the built-in AirPort antenna in the space provided for the AirPort card.

If you don't see a space for the AirPort card, your iBook either is not compatible with AirPort or it already has AirPort installed.

4. Connect the antenna to the antenna port on the AirPort card.

5. Insert the AirPort card into the slot, ensuring that the connector pins seat firmly in the AirPort card socket.

Do not force the card into position. If the AirPort card and the port on your computer don't match, you probably have the wrong kind of card for your iBook model.

6. Seat the AirPort card wire retention clasp and replace the keyboard and battery.

Installing an AirPort card in an eMac

Follow these steps to install an AirPort card in an eMac:

1. Open the DVD-ROM disc tray and leave it open.

2. Shut down your computer and make sure that the power is off.

Disconnect the power cable to make sure that the computer doesn't accidentally turn on while you are installing the card.

3. Remove the two Philips-head screws on the cover inside the disc tray to reveal the AirPort card slot (see Figure 2).

Figure 2: The AirPort card slot.

4. Disconnect the antenna from the cover and then press the antenna into the AirPort card's antenna port.

5. Insert the AirPort card firmly into the slot until it seats and then reinstall the cover inside the disc tray.

Connecting to a Wi-Fi access point

To connect to a Wi-Fi access point, follow these steps:

1. If AirPort isn't already enabled, click the AirPort icon on the menu bar in the upper-right corner of the screen and choose Turn AirPort On.

2. Click the AirPort icon in the menu bar again and choose Other to connect to a new Wi-Fi network.

If the access point is set to broadcast its SSID, it may appear in the list of available networks in the AirPort menu. If you see the network to which you want to connect listed, click its name.

3. In the resulting Closed Network dialog box, enter the network's SSID in the Network Name text box.

4. Choose a Wireless Security method as needed for the network.

5. Click OK to connect to the network.

6. Check the status and signal strength of the Wi-Fi network by clicking the AirPort icon in the menu bar and choosing Open Internet Connect.

Managing Wi-Fi networks

Follow these steps to manage your Wi-Fi network:

1. Choose Apple --> System Preferences to open the System Preferences window.

2. Click the Network icon to open the Network dialog box.

3. Choose AirPort in the Show menu to reveal AirPort settings.

4. In the By Default, Join menu, choose Preferred Networks.

5. In the resulting list, rearrange the order by clicking and dragging networks up or down in the list.

6. To remove a network from the list, click the network to select it and then click the Remove (-) button.

7. Select a network and choose Edit to change encryption keys and other network details for a given network.

8. When you are done making changes, click the Apply Now button and then quit System Preferences.

To update the AirPort software, choose Apple --> Software Update to run the Software Update. Download and install any necessary updates to your computer.

Camino Keyboard Shortcuts

2007-08-08T05:19:00.000-07:00

`Camino` Menu	Shortcuts
Preferences…	Command-Comma
Empty Cache	Command-Option-E
Hide Camino	Command-H
Hide Others	Command-Option-H
Quit Camino	Command-Q
`File` Menu	Shortcuts
New Window	Command-N
New Tab	Command-T
Open File…	Command-O
Open Location…	Command-L
Search the Web…	Command-Shift-F
Close Window (with tabs)	Command-Shift-W
Close Window (without tabs)	Command-W
Close All Windows	Command-Option-W
Close Tab	Command-W
Save As…	Command-S
Email Page Location	Command-Shift-L
Page Setup…	Command-Shift-P
Print…	Command-P
`Edit` Menu	Shortcuts
Undo	Command-Z
Redo	Command-Shift-Z
Cut	Command-X
Copy	Command-C
Paste	Command-V
Select All	Command-A
Fill Form	Command-Option-F
Find in Page…	Command-F
Find Again	Command-G
Find Previous	Command-Shift-G
Use Selection for Find	Command-E
`View` Menu	Shortcuts
Show/Hide Toolbar	Command-Shift-T
Show/Hide Bookmark Bar	Command-Shift-B
Stop Loading Page	Command-Period
Reload Page	Command-R
Force Reload Page	Command-Shift-R
Reload All Tabs	Command-Option-R
Force Reload All Tabs	Command-Shift-Option-R
Page Info (for pages)	Command-I
Bookmark Info (for bookmarks)	Command-I
Make Text Bigger	Command-Equals
Make Text Default	Command-0
Make Text Smaller	Command-Minus
View Page Source	Command-Option-V
`History` Menu	Shortcuts
Home	Command-Shift-H
Back	Command-[
Forward	Command-]
Show History	Command-Y
`Bookmarks` Menu	Shortcuts
Bookmark Current Page…	Command-K
Bookmark Current Page (without sheet)	Command-Shift-K
Bookmark Current Tabs as Tab Group…	Command-Option-K
Bookmark Current Tabs as Tab Group (without sheet)	Command-Shift-Option-K
Add Bookmark Folder…	Command-Shift-N
Show Bookmark Manager	Command-B
`Window` Menu	Shortcuts
Minimize	Command-M
Minimize All	Command-Option-M
Zoom All	Option-Zoom
Previous Tab	Command-Option-Left Arrow
Next Tab	Command-Option-Right Arrow
Downloads	Command-Shift-D
Other	Shortcuts
Camino Help	Command-Question
Open Link in New Window/Tab	Command-Click
Focus Location Bar	Command-L
Focus Search Field	Command-Shift-F
Reverse the Load in background setting for Open Link in New Window/Tab, View Source, and other commands which open new windows/tabs	Command-Shift-Click
Open in New Tabs (tab group or folder in the `Bookmarks` menu)	Command-Click
Open in a new tab (bookmark, tab group, or history item)	Command-Click
Open current page in a new tab	Command-Return in the location bar
Save current page	Option-Return in the location bar
Open search results in a new tab	Command-Return in the search field
Open nth bookmark or tab group on Bookmark Bar	Command-1 through Command-9
Close Panel (Find, Page Info, Bookmark Info)	Escape
Maximize window to fill screen	Shift-Zoom
Maximize all windows to fill screen	Shift-Option-Zoom
Click-and-Move Scrolling	Command-Option-Click and move the mouse
Horizontal Page Scrolling	Shift-Scrollwheel
Find As You Type	Forward Slash starts, then type
Find As You Type (links only)	Single Quote starts, then type

AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet): Factory Default Settings

2007-08-07T19:44:00.001-07:00

This article provides the default settings for the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet) with AirPort 2.0 software.

Default Names, Addresses, and Passwords

For all LAN clients:

Base Station Password: public
Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0

For wireless clients:

AirPort Network Name: Apple Network xxxxxx (see Note 1, below)
Network Password: None

As seen from wireless and wired LAN clients:

AirPort Base Station Name: Base Station
AirPort Base Station IP: 10.0.1.1

As seen from the WAN port:

AirPort Base Station Name: Base Station
AirPort Base Station IP: 192.42.249.13 or 169.254.x.x (Note 2)

Default Port Configurations

Ethernet (LAN): Configure via DHCP and network address translation (NAT)
Wireless: Configure via DHCP and network address translation (NAT)
Channel Frequency: 1
Encryption: Off
Closed network: Off
Station density: Low
Multicast rate: 2
Interference Robustness: Off

See Note 3.

For steps on how to reset the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet) to the default state see technical document 106602: AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet): How to Reset

Notes:

here

AirPort 2.0.4: About Using Link-Local Addressing

AirPort: Requirements for Wireless Internet Access

Resetting the AirPort Base Station (Graphite)

2007-08-07T19:41:00.000-07:00

This article describes how to perform a forced reload or reset of the base station firmware and factory default settings. After performing a forced reload or reset you will have to run the AirPort Setup Assistant to reconfigure the Base Station for use.

Note: This article pertains to the AirPort Base Station (Graphite) used with AirPort software versions 1.0, 1.3 and 2.0. If you have the later AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet) with AirPort software version 2.0 or later, see Resetting the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet).

Reinstalling base station software (firmware)
If your AirPort Base Station stops responding completely, you need to reset the base station and then reinstall the base station software (perform a forced reload). Reinstalling the base station software may be useful when troubleshooting a base station problem because it will restore the base station to its factory default state allowing you to reconfigure it using the AirPort Setup Assistant or AirPort Admin Utility.

IMPORTANT You should only reset the base station and reinstall the software if all other methods of accessing the base station fail. Your computer must be directly connected to the base station using an Ethernet crossover cable or an Ethernet hub. You cannot configure the base station using a wireless connection. All settings will be lost.
To reset the base station and reinstall the software, do the following:

Connect your computer to the AirPort Base Station using Ethernet. You can connect directly to the base station using an Ethernet crossover cable, or you can connect through an Ethernet hub using standard Ethernet cables.
Configure your TCP settings to connect using Ethernet and configure manually (IP 192.42.249.15, Subnet 255.255.255.0, Router 192.42.249.13)
You may notice a brief system delay after closing the control panel.
Disconnect the power adapter from the base station and then reconnect it.
When all three status lights glow amber (yellow or orange), insert the end of a paper clip into the reset button hole on the bottom of the base station.
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds.
The middle AirPort Base Station status light glows amber (yellow or orange). If the light glows green, you pressed the reset button too late. Go back to step 3 and try again.
Open the AirPort Admin Utility. Note that the location of this utility varies with different operating system versions. You may locate it using Sherlock prior to Mac OS X 10.2, or the Find dialog of the Finder in Mac OS X 10.2 or later.
After a brief delay, a list of base stations appears. If the AirPort Admin Utility is already open, click the Re-scan button.
Select your base station from the list and click Configure. (The base station name will be set to the Ethernet ID of the base station, for example "00-50-E4-5B-8F-EA".)
Follow the onscreen instructions to reinstall your AirPort Base Station software.
Note: The AirPort Base Station password is set to "public".
Use the AirPort Setup Assistant to reconfigure the base station. Note that the location of this utility varies with different operating system versions. You may locate it using Sherlock prior to Mac OS X 10.2, or the Find dialog of the Finder in Mac OS X 10.2 or later.

IMPORTANT: If you use the AirPort Setup Assistant to reconfigure the AirPort Base Station after reinstalling base station software, make sure that you select the correct set of TCP/IP settings to use to configure the base station. Because you changed your current TCP/IP configuration to Ethernet, you may have a TCP/IP configuration titled "AirPort" that uses Ethernet. When prompted to select a configuration in the AirPort Setup Assistant, do not use this configuration.
If you want to use the AirPort Admin Utility to reconfigure your base station instead of using the AirPort Setup Assistant, set the TCP/IP control panel back to connect using AirPort, if necessary select the AirPort network from the AirPort application or Control Strip, click Re-scan in the AirPort Admin Utility, select your base station and click Configure, and when prompted for a password enter "public".

Note: Wireless Internet access requires an AirPort Card, AirPort Base Station, and an Internet service provider, for which fees may apply. Some ISPs are not compatible with AirPort. America Online (AOL) works with AirPort software version 2.0 or later. For more information on AOL compatibility, see AirPort: Using with AOL. Range may vary with site conditions.

Resetting the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet)

2007-08-07T19:36:00.000-07:00

This document describes how to reset the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet).

Note: This article pertains to the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet). If you have the earlier AirPort Base Station (Graphite), see Resetting the AirPort Base Station (Graphite).

The reset button is used to return the base station to its default state or allow access to the base station when the password has been misplaced or forgotten.

This pictures shows the location of the reset button. It is located on the rear, next to the connection ports. You need to straighten the end of a small paper clip to press the reset button.

Important: Be sure you know which icons identify the local area network (LAN) Ethernet port and the wide area network (WAN) Ethernet port .

The LAN port icon:

The WAN port icon:

The reset button on the AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet) can be used to perform either a hard reset ("forced reload," "firmware upload mode") or a soft reset.

Soft reset

The soft reset removes the password and the closed network settings. The base station is accessible from any of the ports while in the soft reset mode (WAN, LAN, or wireless).

To perform a soft reset:

1. Press the reset button once.

The middle LED blinks at a rate of once every second while in soft reset mode. You can connect to the soft reset base station at the IP addresses listed in the factory default settings document.

Hard reset

A hard reset removes current settings from the base station. You must then connect to the base station using the AirPort Admin Utility and upload AirPort 2.0 or later software to return the base station to its default settings. A base station in a hard reset mode is only accessible through the LAN port, not via wireless connections.

To perform a hard reset:

Unplug the power adapter.
Press and hold the reset button.
Plug in the power adapter.
Release the reset button after at least two seconds total have elapsed (including the time required to plug in the power adapter while keeping the reset button depressed).

The middle LED blinks at a rate of once every second while in hard reset mode.

Verifying a hard reset

To determine if a soft reset was performed when a hard reset was intended, you should check the base station's name. If the name remains unchanged as a user-defined name, then a soft reset occurred. If the name was reset, then the hard reset was successful. Another way to tell if the base station is in hard reset mode is to try to access the base station with a wireless connection or from the WAN port. If the base station is only available through the LAN port, then the base station is in the hard reset mode.

Characteristics after a hard reset

Base station is visible from the LAN port only.
The default AirPort Base Station Name is: 00-03-93-xx-xx-xx Note: The "xx-xx-xx" portion of the name corresponds to the MAC address of the WAN port, which is listed as Ethernet ID #1 on the bottom of the base station.
The AirPort Base Station IP address is 192.42.249.13 from the LAN port.
Note: After you upload AirPort software, the IP address of the LAN port returns to 10.0.1.1. However, you may connect to the hard reset base station using any IP address to upload the software. The steps in the documents linked below use DHCP configuration for simplicity.

Note: Wireless Internet access requires an Internet service provider (fees may apply) and AirPort (or AirPort-compatible) wireless Ethernet card and base station. Some ISPs are not compatible with AirPort. For more information, see Requirements for wireless Internet access.

Playing Windows DVDs on Your Mac

2007-08-06T14:23:00.000-07:00

One of the joys of having a DVD-equipped Mac is being able to watch full-length Hollywood films right on your own computer screen. But as you may have discovered, not every DVD title that you rent from your local video store plays correctly. Turns out that some DVDs are encoded specifically for Windows machines. Pop one of these Windows-flavored discs into your PowerBook's DVD drive and instead of getting a full-screen movie, all you see is an error message stating that the Apple DVD Player is "having problems" playing the disc because it's "dirty or scratched."

Of course, the DVD is probably neither dirty nor scratched; it's just Mac-stupid. But here's a way to work around that nasty problem: Just press Command+Option+I while inserting your DVD. This forces the DVD to mount, ignoring any of the PC-specific code recorded on it. After the disc is mounted, Apple DVD Player will recognize it; you should be able to play it normally.

Landing Safely at the Mac AirPort

2007-08-06T14:22:00.000-07:00

All the Macs introduced during the last few years can exploit wireless networking through radio technology that Apple brands AirPort. Most of the rest of the computing world refers to the core technology as Wi-Fi, as outlined in the later section "The ABCs of Wi-Fi."

If your Mac doesn't have built-in wireless but does have OS X version 10.27 or later, you can install an optional AirPort Extreme card. Also note that AirPort Extreme is not compatible with Power Mac G5 Dual and Power Mac G5 Quad computers introduced in October 2005.

Macs with built-in wireless communicate over the air — even through walls and at times considerable distances — with a compatible router or base station.

Apple sells two versions of the AirPort base station, the AirPort Extreme and the portable AirPort Express, addressed in a later section. Apple grounded the first-generation AirPort base station model and cards, although you can still find them on eBay. The cards may be your only hope if you want to go wireless on an older Mac.

Although Apple would love to sell you an AirPort base station, wireless-capable Macs can tap into routers produced by Belkin, D-Link, Linksys, and Netgear, even if you previously set those up to work with a Windows network.

Under ideal, and frankly rarely met, conditions, AirPort Extreme provides maximum ranges of 50 feet at around 54 Mbps (which is plenty fast) and 150 feet at 11 Mbps (still plenty fast enough for Web surfing). A combination of up to 50 Macs or Windows PCs can simultaneously share a single AirPort Extreme base station.

To set up AirPort Extreme, follow these steps:

1. Plug the AirPort Extreme into a power outlet.

You have no power switch; status lights are your only immediate clue that your AirPort has taken off.

2. If you're using a cable modem or DSL, connect an Ethernet cable to the LAN port on the base station. With a wired Ethernet network, connect to the WAN port.

You can also connect a regular phone line to the modem port.

3. Run the AirPort Setup Assistant software, found in the Utilities folder inside the Applications folder.

4. For advanced security and other settings, run the AirPort Admin Utility software, also found in the Utilities folder.

The ABCs of Wi-Fi

The underlying technology behind AirPort is called Wi-Fi, the friendlier moniker applied to the geekier 802.11 designations. "Eight-oh-two-dot-eleven" (as it's pronounced) is followed by a letter, typically b or g. These letters indicate the speed and range you can expect from your wireless configuration. Alas, the geek alphabet makes little sense. Indeed, a few years ago, products that met a wireless standard called 802.11a hit the market after those based on 802.11b.

AirPort Extreme measures up to the modern 802.11g standard, nearly five times faster than the b standard that the original AirPort met when it debuted in 1999. Currently, products based on an even faster standard, 802.11n, are emerging. The newer standard is backward compatible, meaning that products based on it can work with older gear, though not to its fullest potential.

Using the AirPort Express

It looks kind of like a power adapter that might come with an Apple laptop, right down to its built-in plug. But the rectangular, near-7-ounce AirPort Express device is a versatile little gadget. This portable hub has just three ports on its underbelly: Ethernet, USB, and Line-out.

If you plan on using AirPort Express as a router, plug the device into an AC outlet and connect an Ethernet cord to your cable modem or DSL. You'll use the same AirPort software as the Extreme base station.

You see no on-off button; status lights clue you in on how things are going. A steady green status light tells you that you've connected with no problem. Flashing amber means that the device is having trouble making a connection, and you may have to resort to other means, including (as a final resort) taking the end of a straightened paper clip and holding down a "Reset" button for ten seconds.

Here's what AirPort Express can accomplish:

Connect it to your cable modem or DSL and use it as a wireless 802.11g router, just like its larger sibling.

Use it as a wireless bridge to extend the range of an existing AirPort network beyond 150 feet.

Connect a printer to the AirPort Express USB port to share that printer with any computer on the network.

Connect a cable from the broadband box in a hotel room, and you can roam around the room and surf wirelessly.

Automating Mundane Chores in Tiger

2007-08-06T14:20:00.000-07:00

One new feature in Tiger — Automator — has generated a lot of excitement. Automator can create applications with a compiled form of AppleScript. That might sound daunting, but Automator is actually easy to use. Heck, you might find it downright fun!

Building Automator applications

Automator applications are built by using a drag-and-drop approach. If you're familiar with how iMovie works, you'll feel right at home here. The tasks that you arrange in the Automator window run sequentially, just like the video clips that you drag into an iMovie window.

You can create a simple Automator application by following these steps:

1. Open the Finder menu.

2. Press Command+N to open a new Finder window.

3. Click the Applications folder in the Finder window sidebar (housed on the left side of the window).

4. Double-click the Automator icon.

The Automator window appears.

5. In the Library column, click the Tiger application that you want to be automated.

A list of actions appears that you can perform with that application.

6. Drag the desired action into the Workflow area (right side).

If the action that you selected can be modified with criteria, you can change the settings to your heart's content.

7. Click Run to test your script.

8. If the script runs properly, press Command+Shift+S to save your application.

Automator displays a Save As dialog box.

If the script doesn't work quite the way you intended, you can remove and rearrange actions to your heart's content. (To remove an action, click the X button in the upper-right corner of the action block.) You might also consider tweaking the action-specific settings or using the Ask When Run option to make sure that an action gets the right input.

9. Type a name for your new program.

10. Click File Format and then choose Application.

11. Click Save.

You can build an Automator application that uses values that you type (a software developer calls it your input) each time you run it. To set your application for manual input, select the Ask When Run check box. This allows your application to prompt you with a dialog box that requests the necessary values (such as an iTunes playlist or a specific folder on your hard drive).

Running applications at startup

If your Automator application should run every time you log in, follow these steps to set it up as a login item:

1. Open System Preferences.

2. Display the Accounts pane.

3. Click the Login Items button.

4. Click the plus button at the bottom of the list.

5. Navigate to the location of your new Automator application.

6. Click Add.

Now your Automator application is really automatic. Watch your significant other gape in amazement as your MacBook Pro begins to work without your touching the keyboard!

Many third-party applications run their own Automator actions after installation. Check the developer's Web site often to see whether additional Automator applications have been added that you can download.

Connecting Your MacBook to a USB Printer

2007-08-06T14:18:00.000-07:00

Connecting a USB printer to your Mac is duck soup. Don't you wish all things in life were this easy? You might very well be able to skip most of the steps described here, depending on whether your printer came with an installation disc. (Virtually all do, but you may have bought yours used, from eBay or elsewhere.)

Your printer needs to be fully supported in Mac OS X:

If the software is designed for earlier versions of Mac OS X (such as 10.2 or 10.3), it probably works with Tiger.

Visit the manufacturer's Web site to download the latest printer driver and support software after you install your printer. That way, you know that you're up to date.

Save and close your files before installing your printer. You might have to restart your laptop to complete the installation.

The physical connections for your printer are simple:

Make sure that your printer's USB cable is plugged into both your Mac and the printer itself.

The printer should be plugged into an AC wall socket and turned on (after the USB connection has been made).

Don't forget to add the paper!

The following printer installation steps depend on whether you have a manufacturer's installation CD for your printer.

Using the installation disc

If your printer comes with the manufacturer's installation disc, follow these steps when everything is connected and powered on:

1. Insert the installation disc in your laptop's optical drive.

The disc contents usually appear in a Finder window. If they don't, double-click the installation disc icon on the desktop to open the window.

2. Double-click the installation application to start the ball rolling.

3. Follow the on-screen instructions.

Files get copied to your hard drive.

4. Restart your Mac (if required).

You're ready to print!

Don't forget to visit your printer manufacturer's Web site to check whether any driver updates are available for your particular model.

Installing without the manufacturer's disc

Didn't get an installation CD? Try installing the printer without software or downloading the software from the manufacturer's Web site.

If you didn't get an installation CD with your printer, maybe you're lucky enough that your printer's driver was included in your installation of Mac OS X. Here's how to check for that pesky driver after you connect the printer and switch it on:

1. Open a Finder window and navigate to the Utilities folder.

The Utilities folder is usually inside your Applications folder.

2. Double-click the Printer Setup Utility icon.

3. Check the Printer list in the Printer Setup Utility window to see whether your printer has already been added automatically in Tiger.

If your printer appears here, you can close the Utility window and choose that printer from the Print dialog box in your applications.

If you don't have installation software and your Mac doesn't automatically match the printer with a driver, adding the printer manually is your last installation option. Follow these steps:

1. Open a Finder window and navigate to the Utilities folder.

2. Double-click the Printer Setup Utility icon.

3. Click the Add icon on the Printer Setup Utility toolbar.

4. Click the Print Using pop-up menu.

The list of supported printer models appears.

5. Click the closest match to your printer in the Print Using list.

Figure 1 shows an example of some of the printer models recognized in Tiger. If you don't find an exact match for your printer, you have a couple of options:

• Look for just the brand name, such as Epson.

• Try the generic USB setting. If you choose USB, Tiger defaults to Auto Select for the printer model. You can manually change this if the automatic selection wasn't right.

Figure 1: Choosing a printer from the Add sheet's drop-down list.

6. Click Add.

The other option is to check the manufacturer's Web site for your printer's software. Look for special software drivers and installation applications that the printer might need. If the manufacturer offers an installation application for your printer, download the application and run it.

Install any drivers you find before you run an installation application.

Printing in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T14:16:00.000-07:00

Tiger makes document printing a breeze. Because virtually all Mac printers use a Universal Serial Bus (USB) port, setting up printing couldn't be easier. Turn on your printer and connect the USB cable between the printer and your laptop; Tiger does the rest.

Printer manufacturers supply you with installation software that might add cool extra software or fonts to your system. Even if Tiger recognizes your USB printer immediately, you should still launch the manufacturer's Mac OS X installation disc.

After your printer is connected and installed, you can use the same procedure to print from just about every Mac OS X application on the planet! To print using the default page layout settings — standard 8-1/2-x-11–inch paper, portrait mode, no scaling — follow these steps:

1. Within the active application, choose File --> Print or press Command+P.

Mac OS X displays the Print dialog box.

2. To print from a different printer connected to your laptop or to print over a network connection to a shared printer on another computer, follow these steps:

• Click the Printer pop-up menu.

• In this pop-up menu, Tiger displays all the printers that you can access.

• Click the desired printer to select it.

3. To check what the printed document will look like, click Preview.

If you have to make changes to the document or you need to change the default print settings, click Cancel to return to your document. (You have to repeat Step 1 to display the Print dialog box again.)

4. For more than one copy, click in the Copies field and type the number of copies you need.

Collation (separating copies) is also available, and it doesn't cost a thing!

5. To print a range of selected pages, select the From radio button and then enter the starting and ending pages.

To print the entire document, leave the default Pages option set to All.

6. If the application offers its own print settings, such as collating and grayscale printing, make any necessary changes to those settings.

To display these application-specific settings, click the Copies & Pages pop-up menu in the Print dialog box and choose the desired settings pane that you need to adjust. (You can blissfully ignore these settings and skip this step if the defaults are fine.)

7. When you're set to go, click the Print button.

You can also save an electronic version of a document in the popular Adobe Acrobat PDF format from the Print dialog box — without spending money on Adobe Acrobat — by following these steps:

1. Click the PDF button to display the destination list.

2. Choose Save as PDF.

Tiger prompts you with a Save As dialog box, where you can type a name for the PDF document and specify a location on your hard drive where the file should be saved.

If you like, you can even fax a PDF document or send it as an email attachment! Just choose these options from the destination list instead of choosing Save as PDF

Sending and Receiving Faxes on a Mac

2007-08-06T14:15:00.000-07:00

If you bought a Mac with a built-in, dial-up fax modem, you don't need a dedicated fax machine. Just connect a telephone cord to the Mac's modem jack and you're all set. Unfortunately, the dial-up modem is no longer standard on the latest Macs. Instead, it's a USB add-on that costs around $50.

Sending a fax

If you have the Apple modem, you'll appreciate the convenience of computer faxing. You don't have to print a document and go to the trouble of feeding a dedicated fax machine. Instead, you dispatch faxes directly from any program with printing capabilities.

1. Open the document you want to fax.

2. Chose File --> Print.

3. Click the PDF button and choose Fax PDF from the pop-up menu.

A fax sheet appears.

4. In the To field on the fax sheet, type the fax number of the person to whom you want to send the fax, including 1 and the area code (like this: 1 212 555 1234).

If necessary, to access an outside line, add a dialing prefix such as 9 in the box marked as such.

Alternatively, choose an entry from your Address Book by clicking the shadowy silhouette icon to the right of the To field and then double-clicking the card of the contact to whom you want to fax.

5. In the Modem box, select Internet Modem (or whatever) as the means for dispatching your fax.

6. If you want a cover page, select the Use Cover Page option and type a subject line and brief message.

7. If you click the pop-up menu that says Fax Cover Page, you can choose other options to schedule the delivery of your fax or alter the layout.

8. To review the fax before sending it, click the Preview button.

9. Click the Fax button.

You should hear that awful, grinding faxing sound. It's the best evidence that your fax is on its merry way.

Receiving a fax

It makes sense that if a Mac can send a fax, it can receive one too. Make sure you have an available phone line and your computer is awake. A Mac in sleep mode cannot receive a fax. Then follow these steps:

1. From System Preferences, choose Print & Fax and then click the Faxing tab.

2. Select the Receive Faxes on This Computer option.

3. Type your fax number, including area code, in the box, like this: 212 555 1234.

4. Designate the number of rings before the fax is answered.

Make sure the computer gets to pick up before an answering machine connected to the same phone line.

5. Choose how you want the incoming fax to be treated:

• Save the fax as a PDF in the Shared Faxes folder that Apple suggests, or save it to another folder

• Send the fax to a specific e-mail address

• Automatically print the fax

You can accept an incoming fax even if you haven't bothered to set up the system to receive faxes automatically. Go to System Preference, choose Print & Fax, and click Faxing. Select the box Show Fax Status in Menu Bar option. When the phone rings, choose Answer Now from the Fax Status icon in the menu bar.

Manually Back Up Your MacBook Laptop with .Mac

2007-08-06T14:12:00.000-07:00

Subscribers to the .Mac online hosting service get a utility application called Backup 3 — a great application that saves a copy of your treasured data on just about any media on the planet, including

Your iDisk

An external USB or FireWire hard drive

Recordable CD or DVD media

Network servers

Your iPod

Before you get too excited about backing up to your iPod, heed this: Your iPod's tiny hard drive isn't meant to handle the same serious thrashing as a full-size external hard drive. Using your iPod as a backup destination isn't a great idea unless no other recording media is handy and you absolutely must have a backup.

Backup isn't built into OS X Tiger (the operating system that the MacBook uses), so you have to download it. After the compressed image file has been downloaded and mounted on your desktop, you see the Backup installation folder. Double-click the Backup.pkg file to begin the installation. After installation is complete, you can find Backup in your Applications folder.

You can manually back up your laptop whenever you like; just double-click the Backup application and you'll see the main Backup window. Beginning a backup is as easy as selecting the check boxes next to the items that you want to safeguard and then clicking Continue. Apple offers several default backup sets (or plans). If one or more of these plans fit the bill, you need only click Back Up; by default, the data is saved to CD or DVD media.

"But wait. What if I want to select folders or files for my backup that aren't in the default plans?" No problem, just create your own plan as follows:

1. From the main Backup window, Click the Add button under Backup Items — which bears a plus sign.

2. Click the Custom plan, and then click Choose Plan.

3. In the box at the top, type a new plan name for this group of files.

4. Click the Add button.

Backup opens a file/folder selection sheet.

5. Click the Files and Folders button.

6. Navigate to the file or folder that you want to back up and click it to select it.

7. Click Include this folder, and then click Done.

You return to the Custom Plan dialog box. You're limited to backing up a total of 100MB with a trial membership.

8. Click the Add button (again, bearing a plus sign) under Destination and Schedule.

9. Choose a destination and a folder to store the data using the Destination and Folder pop-up menus.

10. Click OK to save your changes.

11. In the Custom Plan dialog box, click Backup Now.

Your irreplaceable stuff is saved to your destination.

If you just want to create a new plan and don't need to back up data immediately, click Close in the Custom Plan dialog box instead of Backup Now to save your changes and return to the Backup window.

If you ever need to restore from your backup, click the desired plan from the Backup window and then click Restore. Backup leads you through the restore process with the same aplomb.

Formatting Your Mac Document

2007-08-06T14:08:00.001-07:00

Fancy fonts aren't the only way to doll up a document. You have important decisions to make about proper margins, paragraph indentations, and text tabs. And you must determine whether lines of text should be single- or double-spaced. But it's still a lot easier than using a typewriter.

Set your margins and tab stops by dragging the tiny triangles along the ruler. Now click the Spacing drop-down menu, just above the ruler. Clicking Single separates the lines in the way you are reading them in this paragraph.

If you choose Double, the line jumps down to here, and the next line

jumps down to here.

Got it?

Some control freaks (you know who you are) might want to click Other under the Spacing menu. Now you can precisely determine the height of your line, the way the paragraphs are spaced (that is, the distance from the bottom of a paragraph to the top of the first line in the next paragraph), and other parameters, according to the points system.

Here are other tricks that make TextEdit a capable writing companion:

Aligning paragraphs: After clicking anywhere in a paragraph, choose Format --> Text and choose an alignment (left, center, justified, or right). Play around with these choices to determine what looks best.

Writing from right to left: This one could be useful for writing in Hebrew or Arabic. Choose Format --> Text --> Writing Direction and then click Right to Left. Click again to go back the other way, or choose Edit --> Undo Set Writing Direction.

Locating text: You can use the Find command under the Edit menu to uncover multiple occurrences of specific words and phrases and replace them individually or collectively.

Producing lists: Sometimes the best way to get your message across is in list form — kind of like what you see here. By clicking the Lists drop-down menu, you can present a list with bullets, numbers, Roman numerals, uppercase or lowercase letters, and more. Keep clicking the choices until you find the one that makes the most sense.

Creating tables: Then again, you may want to emphasize important points using a table or chart. Choose Format --> Text --> Table. In the window that appears, you can select the number of rows and columns you need for your table. You can select a color background for each cell by clicking the Cell Background drop-down list and choosing Color Fill, and then choosing a hue from the palette that appears when you click the rectangle to the right. You can drag the borders of a row or a column to alter its dimensions. You can also merge or split table cells by selecting the appropriate cells and then clicking the Merge Cells or Split Cells button.

Old Macs Become New Again

2007-08-06T14:06:00.000-07:00

Stuck with an officially un-upgradable Mac? You may have to take the unofficial path, as long as you're willing to take your warranty in your own hands (assuming that your Mac is even under warranty anymore). First, you can try a logic board swap. Many Mac models with sliding logic boards (especially older Performas and all-in-one LC models) can be quickly upgraded to a faster Mac. These upgrades don't always work, but pre-PowerPC Performas have been known to run with PowerPC 603e processors.

In other cases, the logic board upgrade may be more difficult but doable, especially if you buy an upgrade kit and get a professional to install it. So, where do you find these boards? Try Shreve Systems, NEXCOMP, or MilagroMac for starters. Used Mac Web sites or auction sites are also good bets.

If you're really nuts, you can try something called clock chipping, a trick Macheads perform to replace the existing quartz oscillating clock on the logic board with a faster clock. You can find the upgrades from MicroMac and others. You may get a decent speed boost but be aware that clock-chipping a processor too high can introduce errors, affecting stability. You may want to consider RAM and cache RAM upgrades instead of clock-chipping.

Mac Troubleshooting: Doing the Reboot

2007-08-06T14:05:00.000-07:00

You'd be amazed at how often a simple reboot (that is, shutting down and restarting your Mac) can cure a temporary problem. For example, this can fix the occasional lockup in Mac OS X or a keyboard that's not responding because of a power failure. If possible, make sure that you first close any open documents or you might lose unsaved work. When troubleshooting, always do a shutdown instead of simply restarting the computer, because when Mac OS X shuts down, all the hardware components that make up your system are reset.

If your Mac is locked up tight and you can't use the Shut Down command from the Apple menu, you have two choices. First, press and hold the Power button on your Mac for a few seconds, which turns the computer off. If this doesn't work — and, from time to time, it actually doesn't — you'll have to physically pull the power cord from the wall (or turn off the surge suppressor, if you're using one). However, save this last option as absolutely the last resort.

Taming the Mac Trackpad

2007-08-06T14:03:00.000-07:00

On a Mac portable, the trackpad is the smooth rectangular finger-licking surface below the keyboard — it's your laptop's answer to using a mouse. You can still use a regular mouse with a laptop, of course, and may prefer to do so if you're sitting at your regular desk. If you're sitting in tight quarters (like the coach section on a plane), the mouse is an unwelcome companion, especially to the passenger sitting next to you.

A trackpad (and the human beings who control it) has its own annoying idiosyncrasies. It may refuse to cooperate if you touch it coming out of the shower. Hand-lotions are also a no-no. A trackpad loathes moisture and humidity. If it does get wet, gently wipe it with a clean, dry cloth. Do not use any kind of household cleaning solution.

The best place to train a trackpad is in Keyboard and Mouse preferences. Choose Apple Menu --> System Preferences. (The Apple Menu is the Apple icon at the top left of the screen.) Next, under Keyboard and Mouse preferences, click Trackpad. The Keyboard & Mouse window appears.

Here are some of the things you can do in the Keyboard & Mouse window:

Drag the Tracking Speed slider to change how fast the pointer moves and the Double-Click Speed slider to set how fast you have to double-click.

If you want to click by tapping the trackpad surface, without having to press the trackpad button, select the Clicking option.

You can drag an item by tapping it twice, without having to hold down the button, by selecting the Dragging option.

Using two fingers on the trackpad surface will not move the cursor when you select the Ignore accidental trackpad input option.

If you plan on using a regular mouse, select the Ignore trackpad when mouse is present option.

Two-finger scrolling is a recent trackpad function not included on older models.

Updating Mac OS X

2007-08-06T14:02:00.000-07:00

As any good software developer should, Apple constantly releases improvements to Mac OS X in the form of software updates. These updates can include all sorts of fun stuff, such as

Bug fixes

Improvements and new features

Enhanced drivers

Security upgrades

Firmware upgrades

Apple makes it easy to keep Mac OS X up-to-date with the Software Update controls in System Preferences (see Figure 1). Alternatively, you can choose the Apple menu and then choose Software Update. To check for new updates periodically, enable the Check for Updates check box. Then from the drop-down list box, choose how often you want these updates. (At least weekly, if not daily.) For a manual check, make sure that you're connected to the Internet and then click the Check Now button.

Figure 1: Configuring Software Update is easy.

To download updates automatically, mark the Download Important Updates in the Background check box to enable it; the Big X politely downloads the updates behind the scenes and then alerts you that they're ready to be installed. (With automatic downloading disabled, Mac OS X displays any available updates with short descriptions, and you can toggle the installation of a specific update by enabling or disabling the check boxes next to it.)

Install all updates, even for hardware that you don't have yet. For example, install AirPort updates even though if you don't use an AirPort connection at home. The reason? Often, the functionality covered by an update may include system software that you do use, so you'll still benefit from installing it.

After you specify the updates that you want to install, click the Install button to begin the update process. You may have to reboot after everything has been installed.

To see which updates you've already installed, click the Installed Updates tab.

Profiling Your Mac

2007-08-06T14:00:00.000-07:00

Need quick information about your Mac hardware? You might need to determine precisely what hardware is installed in your Mac for the following reasons.

If you're working with a technical support person to solve a problem: This person will usually request information about your system, such as what processor you're running and how much memory you have.
If you're evaluating an application before you buy it: You'll want to check its minimum system requirements against the hardware on your Mac.
If you're considering an upgrade to your Mac: You'll likely need to determine how much memory you have, what type it is, and which memory slots are filled. (The same goes for your hard drive and your video card slots.)

Apple provides Mac OS X with an all-in-one hardware and software display tool, aptly named Apple System profiler, which you can find in the Utilities folder within your Applications folder. You can also reach the Profiler through the Apple menu — click About this Mac and then click the More Info button.)

Demystifying Ethernet for Macs

2007-08-06T13:59:00.000-07:00

The type of Ethernet cable required to connect two Macs without a hub or other middle-device has changed over time. In the old days, you absolutely had to have a crossover cable or the Macs wouldn't be able to see each other. And if you used a hub or router or other intermediary device, you had to use regular Ethernet cables.

It's less true today because many Macs built in the past year or two — and every Mac sold today — has new and improved Ethernet that can determine what type of cable (regular or crossover) that you're using and then automatically adjust itself so that the cable works properly.

These days, you may encounter three possibilities:

If you want to connect two older Macs, you need a crossover cable.
If you want to connect an older Mac to a newer Mac, you may or may not need a crossover cable.
If you want to connect two late-model Macs, you can use either kind of cable.

When in doubt, check Mac OS Help in the Help menu.

Essential Mac Sites

2007-08-06T13:57:00.000-07:00

Essential Mac Sites

Although new Macintosh Web sites are popping up everyday, several sites have been around for a long while and continue to be the best sources of information about your favorite computer. Just as a little reminder, here are a few sites that you must check out often (if not everyday!):

Apple Computer: Here, you can get all the specs on Apple products, download updates to Apple software, purchase products, and get the lowdown on third-party software and hardware products. And be sure to check out the QuickTime area, where you can view the latest movie trailers.
MacCentral: If you're a true Mac junkie, this is the place to get your Mac news fix. MacCentral updates its news items many times a day, so check it often.
MacInTouch: This site is heavy on information about new software releases, but what makes MacInTouch invaluable is its reader reports — regular Joes and Josephines like yourself try out software products and post their experiences. So if you're nervous about installing the latest Mac OS update, check out what other users have to say about it on MacInTouch.
VersionTracker: Every new piece of Mac software (plus, software updates) is listed on VersionTracker on a daily basis. It also has a searchable archive and user comments.
ThinkSecret: Want to know what Apple's got planned for the upcoming months? Check out this Mac rumor site. Keep in mind, though, rumor sites specialize in . . . well, rumors.
DealMac: Looking for the best deal on a new Mac system or much-needed peripheral? Need new RAM or a hard drive? DealMac tracks the best deals out there and can help save you a ton of cash.
Mac tips and tricks http://davidthegeek.blogspot.com

Pro Sound for Macs

2007-08-06T13:55:00.000-07:00

A Mac's built-in sound is acceptable for many sound-related pursuits, such as editing audio for use on both Webcasts and real-live radio shows. But for true professional audio, you may want to upgrade your Mac's capabilities with an expansion card or device.

NuBus or PCI upgrade cards can do two things for you. First, they can give you a better array of ports, such as RCA-style phono jacks, to give you better quality connections for your channels of audio input. Second, cards and components can enable you to input multiple tracks of audio at once, thus using your Mac as a digital mixing board where each individual track can be managed independently.

For example, if you were recording a rock band with a single audio-in port, you'd have to mix the instruments — guitar, keyboard, bass, and drums — using a mixing board before the audio gets into the Mac. That limits your ability to isolate the tracks and make the guitarist louder or add some sound effects to the bassist's riffs. With equipment that supports multiple audio inputs, you can bring in each individual track and computerize it to death.

Such hardware solutions are offered by Korg, DigiDesign, Lucid Audio, and Emagic, among others. They work in tandem with audio software from Macromedia or DigiDesign to manage all those sound tracks.

De-Spam Your Mac

2007-08-06T13:53:00.000-07:00

Spam — it's the Crawling Crud of the Internet. Unfortunately, chucking the First Amendment is not an option for getting rid of spam. Instead, Mac OS X's Mail program comes with its own spam filter and provides you with two methods for handling junk mail.

Manually: You can mark any message in Mail's message list as Junk Mail. Select the unwanted flotsam and then click the Junk Mail button on the Mail window toolbar, which marks the message Junk. If a message is mistakenly marked as junk and you actually want it, display the message in the preview box and then click the Not Junk button at the top of the preview box.
Automatically: Mail has a sophisticated Junk Mail filter that you can actually train to better recognized what's junk. After you train Mail to recognize spam with a high degree of accuracy, turn it to full Automatic mode, and it will move all those worthless messages to your Junk folder.

You can customize and train the Junk Mail filter from the Mail menu; click Junk Mail to show the submenu choices. By default, Mail starts in Training mode, which means that it takes its best shot at determining what's junk. As you receive more mail and mark more messages as junk (or as not junk), you're actually teaching the filter how to winnow the wheat from the chaff.

After you're satisfied that the Junk Mail filter is catching just about everything it can, display the submenu again and choose Automatic. Mail creates a Junk folder and prompts you for permission to move all junk messages to this folder.

Keeping Your Mac Safe

2007-08-06T13:20:00.000-07:00

Mac OS X includes a built-in firewall, which you can enable on the Services tab of the Sharing preference panel. When the firewall is on, communication to any service not allowed in the list is blocked. (In firewall-speak, these entries are called rules because they determine what's allowed to pass through to your Mac.)

To enable communications with a service, select the entry in the list and enable the On check box. Click the New button to specify a new rule by entering a port and assigning it a name. After you create a new rule, it appears in the list, and you can toggle it on and off like any of the default rules. Click the Edit button to edit the selected rule; click the Delete button to remove the selected rule.

If you're using an Internet or network connection, you should enable the firewall to protect your Mac. However, if you suddenly can't connect to other computers or share files that you were originally able to share, it's time to review the rules that you've enabled on this panel.

Using Bluetooth with a Mac

2007-08-06T13:18:00.000-07:00

Bluetooth is a low-frequency wireless networking protocol designed mainly for communication between devices such as keyboards, mice, headsets, GPS antennas, and Pocket PCs. Bluetooth signals have a maximum range of 10 meters (33 feet) or less.

Many newer Macs come with built-in Bluetooth adapters. Check your computer's documentation if you're not sure. Mac OS 10.2 or better is required for Bluetooth compatibility. With OS 10.2 or better, Bluetooth software is built-in to the operating system so no special installation is required.

Adding Bluetooth to your Mac

Use these steps to add Bluetooth to your Mac:

1. If you are adding a USB Bluetooth adapter, start up your computer and then connect the adapter to an open USB port.

A Bluetooth icon appears on the menu bar in the lower-right corner next to the clock.

2. Click the Bluetooth icon in the menu bar and choose Open Bluetooth Preferences from the menu that appears.

3. On the Settings tab of the Bluetooth window, select the Discoverable check box to allow other devices to discover your Mac.

If you're using your iBook or PowerBook in a public location, it's a good idea to turn off Bluetooth to prevent strangers from accessing your computer. Click Turn Bluetooth Off to temporarily disable Bluetooth.

4. Choose whether you want to require authentication for connecting Bluetooth devices. Doing so enables you to use Bluetooth while keeping your computer more secure.

5. Choose whether you want the Bluetooth Setup Assistant to appear when no input device — such as a keyboard or mouse — is detected. This setting makes it easier to use Bluetooth input devices.

6. Close the Bluetooth window.

Connecting a Bluetooth device to your Mac

Follow these steps to connect a Bluetooth device to your Mac:

1. Click the Bluetooth icon in the menu bar and choose Open Bluetooth Preferences from the menu that appears.

2. Click the Devices tab.

3. Click Pair New Device.

4. In the Pair with a Bluetooth Device dialog box, click the device with which you want to pair.

If you don't see the desired device listed, make sure it's turned on and in Pairing mode, and then click Search Again in the Pair with a Bluetooth Device dialog box. The device's documentation should include instructions for enabling pairing mode on the device.

5. Click the Pair button.

6. In the resulting dialog box, enter a passkey and then click OK. The paired device is now listed on the Devices tab of your Bluetooth Preferences dialog box.

To unpair a device, open the Bluetooth Preferences dialog box, open the Devices tab, select the device, and click Delete Pairing.

In some cases, a device's manufacturer tells you to use a specific PIN code such as 0000. Otherwise, make up your own PIN code. You may also need to enter the same PIN code on the other device to create the partnership.

Setting Classic Preferences in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T13:17:00.000-07:00

When you install Mac OS X 10.1 on your Mac, you actually get two operating systems. Mac OS X, of course, runs your machine, but Mac OS 9.2.1 — the Mac OS version just before Mac OS X — is available, too, if you need it.

Mac OS 9.2.1, which is called Classic when running under Mac OS X, actually runs inside an operating system (OS) emulator — software that does most, but not all, of what an operating system does by pretending to be one. When you launch an older application, it's as if you've booted a computer within your computer; that is, Classic first emulates the startup process, loading all the stuff that it needs to mimic Mac OS 9.2.1 and run the application.

Classic is an application, just like AppleWorks, Internet Explorer, or TextEdit. With the Classic application running, you can use Mac OS 9.2.1's Apple menu and you can open Mac OS 9.2.1 applications. You also have access (by switching to another window) to your Mac OS X Desktop and applications. Finally, you can switch to another program (from a Classic program) by choosing it from the Application menu, on the far right of the Mac OS 9.2.1 (Classic) toolbar.

If you have multiple hard drives or partitions with Mac OS 9.2.1 installed on them, you can choose which one to use as the operating system for the Classic environment. You make that choice in the Classic pane of System Preferences. Just select the drive or partition (this example is labeled Number 9 in Figure 1), and the next time that you launch Classic, it uses that volume's copy of Mac OS 9.2.1. Volumes that don't include Mac OS 9.2.1 appear dimmed in the preferences window.

By selecting the Start up Classic on Login to This Computer check box, you tell Mac OS X to do just that. The advantage is that you won't have to wait a minute or two for Classic to launch the first time that you launch a Classic application. The disadvantage is that your Mac takes an extra a minute or two longer to boot, and Classic continues to use RAM and other system resources even if you're not working in a classic application.

Note the three buttons at the bottom of the System Preferences Classic pane's Start/Stop tab (the last two are used mostly when the Classic environment crashes, freezes, or otherwise acts improperly):

Start: Launches Classic without first launching a Classic program. (If Classic is already running, this button reads Stop.)

Restart: Restarts Classic (big surprise), which is like rebooting OS 9.2.1 without having to reboot OS X.

Force Quit: Forces the Classic environment to quit, even if it's crashed or frozen

Installing (or Reinstalling) Mac OS X Panther

2007-08-06T13:16:00.000-07:00

In theory, you should only have to install Mac OS X once. And in a perfect world, that would be the case. But you may find occasions when you have to install/reinstall it, such as the following:

If you get a new Mac that didn't come with Mac OS X pre-installed

If you have a catastrophic hard drive crash that requires you to initialize (format) your boot drive

If any essential Mac OS X files become damaged, corrupted, or are deleted or renamed

The following instructions do double duty: They're what you do to install Mac OS X for the first time on a Mac, and they're also what you do if something happens to the copy of Mac OS X that you boot your Mac from. That is, the process for installing or reinstalling Mac OS X is exactly the same.

If you've backed up your entire hard drive, you might prefer to reinstall from your backup disk or tape rather than reinstalling Mac OS X from the Install Mac OS X CD. That way, you'll be certain that everything is just the way you left it, which is something you can't be sure of if you reinstall from the Install Mac OS X CD.

Here's how to install (or reinstall) Mac OS X, step by step:

1. Boot from your Install Mac OS X CD Disc 1 by inserting the CD into your machine's CD-ROM or DVD drive and then restarting your Mac while holding down the C key.

When Mac OS X has finished booting your Mac, the Install program launches automatically. Here is where you begin the process of installing or reinstalling Mac OS X.

2. Unless you want to use a language other than English for the main language of Mac OS X, click the Continue button in the first screen you see; if you do want to use another language, select the language by clicking its name, and then click the Continue button.

3. Read the Welcome, Important Information, and Software License Agreement screens, clicking the Continue button after each.

A sheet drops down querying whether you agree to the terms of the license agreement. If you don't, you can't go any further, so go ahead and click the Agree button.

If you're currently using any version of Mac OS except version 9.2.2, you might next see a dialog with the warning that you can't run Classic applications unless you have Mac OS 9.2.2 or a later version installed. You can't install Mac OS 9.2.2 right now (you're installing Mac OS X!), but you can click OK and install it later. (Mac OS X, version 10.3 Panther does not come with a Mac OS 9.2.2 Install CD, so you're on your own here.) If you have Mac OS 9.2.2 installed, you won't see this dialog.

4. Choose the disk that you want to install or reinstall Mac OS X on by clicking its icon once in the Select a Destination screen.

At the bottom of the Select a Destination screen is the Options button, which offers three mutually exclusive choices:

• a. Upgrade Mac OS X: Choose this option to upgrade an earlier version of Mac OS X installed on the disk that you chose in Step 4 above. Your Home and other files are left undisturbed; after the upgrade, things will be (more or less) as they were before, except that you'll be running a factory-fresh installation of Mac OS X.

• b. Archive and Install: Choose this option to move all the System components from your existing Mac OS X installation into a folder named Previous System and then install a fresh new copy of Mac OS X. The Previous System folder cannot be used to boot but it does contain any and all files that were in any of the Mac OS X folders before you upgraded.

• If you select this option, a check box for a second option — Preserve Users and Network Settings — becomes available. Mark it if you want to import all the existing users of this Mac, their Home folders, and their network settings — but still archive all the old System stuff into the Previous System folder.

• c. Erase and Install: Choose this option if you want to completely erase the disk that you selected in Step 4, starting completely from scratch.

• If you choose the Erase and Install option, the disk that you selected in Step 4 will be erased, and all your files will be deleted immediately! You should only choose this option if you've backed up all your documents and applications. In most cases, erasing the start-up disk is not necessary.

• If you select this option, the Format Disk As pop-up menu becomes available. Your choices are Mac OS Extended (Journaled), which is the one you want, or Unix File System, which is the one you don't want.

• Unix File System is not a good choice for most Mac OS X users. Suffice it to say that 99.9 percent of you should absolutely and positively avoid Unix File System like the plague (and the other tenth of one percent know who they are and why they need a UFS disk). 'Nuff said.

After you make your selection in this window, click OK to return to the Select a Destination screen and then click Continue.

Now you have the choice to perform an easy install or a customized install. The Easy Install copies all of Mac OS X onto your chosen hard drive (as you choose in Step 4); the Custom Install (click the Customize button at the bottom of the screen) enables you choose to install only the items that you want to install.

In almost all cases, Easy Install is the right way to go.

5. To begin the installation, click the Install button.

The install process takes 10 to 20 minutes, so now might be a good time to take a coffee break. When the install process finishes, your Mac will ask you to insert Mac OS X Install Disk 2. When it's done installing, your Mac will restart itself, and you can begin using Mac OS X . . . hopefully, trouble-free.

After your Mac reboots, the Setup Assistant appears, unless you've chosen Archive and Install and also selected the Preserve Users and Network Settings option, which obviates the need for the Setup Assistant (since you'll still have all your settings from before the installation).

6. Work your way through all of the Setup Assistant screens (you have to before you can begin working in Mac OS X).

Fixing a Frozen Mac

2007-08-06T13:12:00.000-07:00

A colorful spinning beach ball is an unwelcome sight on your Apple, at least when that ball never seems to leave the screen. A beach ball that just keeps spinning is a sign that a cranky Mac has turned into a frozen Mac or that at least one of the programs on the machine is throwing a high-tech temper tantrum. The following sections help you deal with a frozen Mac.

Using Force Quit

Force Quit is the Mac's common way of telling an iced application "I've had it; I'm not going to take it anymore!" Choose Mac menu --> Force Quit or press Command+Option+Esc. A window appears, and you can click the name of the deviant application (not responding probably appears next to its name). With Force Quit, you typically don't have to reboot your computer.

Because you will lose any unsaved changes, Apple throws up a little admonition before allowing you to Force Quit. Alas, you may have no choice.

Dealing with a program that quits on you

Sometimes, for unknown reasons, a program keels over. You could reopen the app and hope that this was a one-time aberration caused by mischievous space aliens. Or, you might have a chronic ailment on your hands.

When programs suddenly drop, you may see dialog boxes with the word unexpectedly, like the ones shown in Figure 1. The box on the left appears the first time you experience this issue; the box at the right shows what happens if the problem persists. If so, you may want to click Try Again to safely relaunch the fussy program. OS X restores the application's default settings (thus setting aside newer preferences settings), in case something you did caused the snafu.

Figure 1: When an application unexpectedly quits . . . and quits again.

Assuming that everything went swell from there, you'll be given the option of keeping the new settings upon quitting the program. Your old preferences are saved in a file with a .saved extension, in case you ever want to go back. If that is the case, move the newer and current preferences file from its present location and remove the .saved extension from the older file.

If the problem continues, it may be time to visit the library. (No, not that kind of library.) A Preferences folder lives inside your Library folder, which in turn resides in your Home folder.

These preferences files have the .plistsuffix and typically begin with com.followed by the name of the program, as in com.microsoft.Word.plist. Try dragging a .plist file with the name of the troubled application out to the desktop. If the program runs smoothly, trash the corrupted preferences file.

Forcing a restart

Force Quit usually rescues you from a minor problem, but it's not effective all the time. If that's the situation you're in now, you'll likely have to reboot. The assumption here is that your frozen computer won't permit you to start over in a conventional way by choosing Mac menu --> Restart.

Instead, try holding down the power button for several seconds or press Control+Command and then the power button. If all else fails, pull the plug (or remove the battery from a laptop), though only as a last resort.

Safe-booting

Starting up Tiger in Safe mode activates a series of measures designed to return your computer to good health. It runs a check of your hard drive, loads only essential kernel extensions (system files) while ignoring others, trashes font cache files, and disables startup and login items.

To start in Safe mode, press the power button to turn on your computer, and press and hold the Shift key the instant you hear the familiar welcome chime. Release Shift when the Apple logo appears. You'll know you've done it correctly because the words Safe Boot appear in the login window. (Prior to Tiger, the words Safe Boot appeared on the OS X startup screen; this feature was not an option before OS X version 10.2.)

Because of its under-the-hood machinations, it will take considerably longer to boot in Safe mode. This is normal. So is the fact that you can't use AirPort, a USB modem, or your DVD player; you can't capture footage in iMovie; and you can't use certain other applications or features.

If the Safe boot resolved your issue, restart the Mac normally, without pressing Shift. If not, it might be time to check your warranty or call in an expert.

Making Friends with the MacBook Finder

2007-08-06T13:11:00.000-07:00

Ah, the Finder — many admire its scenic beauty, but you shouldn't ignore its unsurpassed power nor its many moods. Tiger's Finder is the basic toolbox that you use every day while piloting your laptop. The Finder includes the most common elements of Mac OS X: window controls, common menu commands, icon fun (everything from launching applications to copying files), network connections, keyboard shortcuts, and even emptying the trash. In fact, one could say that if you master the Finder and use it efficiently, you're on your way to becoming a power user!

The popular attractions of the Finder are as follows:

The Finder menu bar: Whenever the Finder itself is ready to use (or, in Mac-speak, whenever the Finder is the active application), the Finder menu bar appears at the top of your screen. You know that the Finder is active and ready when the word Finder appears to the left of the menu bar.

menu

The Apple menu: This is a special menu because it appears both in the Finder and in every application menu that you run. It doesn't matter whether you're in iTunes or Photoshop or Word — if you can see a menu bar, the Apple menu is there. No matter where you are in Tiger, the Apple menu contains common commands to use, such as Restart, Shut Down, and System Preferences.

Some applications, such as Front Row and Apple's DVD Player, may hide the Finder menu bar when they're in full-screen mode. However, you can still access the menu bar, even when it's not visible: Just move your cursor to the top edge of the screen, and the menu bar will usually burst forth.

The Finder desktop: Your Finder desktop serves the same purpose as your physical desktop: You can store stuff here (files, alias icons, and so on), and it's a solid, stable surface where you can work comfortably. Application windows as well as other applications, such as your Stickies notes and your DVD player appear on the desktop. Just click an application there to launch it.

Your desktop is easy to customize. For instance, you can use your own images to decorate the desktop, organize it to store new folders and documents, arrange icons the way you like, or put the dock in another location. You don't have to settle for what Apple gives you as a default desktop.

All sorts of icons: This is a Macintosh computer, after all, replete with tons of make-your-life-easier tools. Check out the plethora of icons on your desktop as well as icons in the Finder window itself. Each icon is a shortcut of sorts to a file, folder, network connection, or device in your system, including applications that you run and documents that you create. Sometimes you click an icon to watch it do its thing (like icons on the dock), but usually you double-click an icon to make something happen.

The dock: The dock is a launching pad for your favorite applications, network connections, and Web sites. You can also refer to it to see what applications are running. Click an icon there to open the item (for example, the postage stamp icon represents Apple's Mail application, while the spiffy compass launches your Safari Web browser).

The Finder window: Finally! You'll use Finder windows to launch applications, perform disk chores such as copying and moving files, and navigate your hard drive.

Getting Familiar with MacBook Parts

2007-08-06T13:09:00.000-07:00

Your MacBook Pro may be only an inch thin, but a lot of superb design lives inside, and you'll encounter the same parts that you'd find in a desktop machine. In the following sections, those important parts are revealed — both the stuff you can see and the stuff that's shoehorned within.

Of course, as you'd expect, a computer has a body of sorts in which all the innards and brains are stored, a display screen, a keyboard, a mouse or other pointing device, and ports for powering and exchanging data with outside toys.

That magnificent screen

What a view you have! Today's Mac laptops feature a 13-, 15-, or 17-inch liquid crystal display (LCD).

LCD screens use far less electricity than their antique cathode ray tube (CRT) ancestors do, and they emit practically no radiation.

Apple's laptop screens offer a widescreen aspect ratio (the screen is considerably wider than it is tall), which works well for those who enjoy watching DVD movies.

Throw away your printed dictionary! You won't need it because Mac OS X Tiger includes the fantastic Sherlock application, which uses the Internet to retrieve definitions from Dictionary.com.

The keyboard and trackpad

Here's something novel for your laptop: Unlike the external input devices on a standard desktop computer, your Mac has a built-in keyboard and trackpad (which does the job of a mouse). The keyboard has the following features:

You can either control the sound volume or mute all that noise.

High-end Mac laptops have illuminated keyboards, which are perfect for darkened dorm rooms and airplane flights.

A handy-dandy Media Eject key lets you eject a CD or DVD.

The disc slot

You'll notice a long groove at the lower-right corner of your MacBook or MacBook Pro. No, it's not for your credit card. This slot accepts CDs and DVDs into your optical drive. If the drive is empty, loading a disc is as simple as sliding it in an inch or so; the drive sucks in the disc automatically. (And you don't need a floppy disk drive. Macs haven't had floppy drives for years now, and the PC types are just beginning to follow.)

The printed label side of the disc should always be facing you when you load a disc.

The audio system

A machine this nice had better have great sound, and the Mac doesn't disappoint. You have a couple of options for Mac laptop audio:

Mac laptops sport built-in stereo speakers (and a microphone to boot).

You can use built-in optical/digital Line Out ports to connect your Mac's audio to a pair of headphones or a more powerful (and expensive) external speaker system, or a home stereo system.

The power cable

Unfortunately, you can't get a wireless power system . . . yet. (Apple is working hard on that one.) However, the MacBook Pro was the first major release of a laptop with a magnetic power connector; the MacBook followed suit soon after. The MagSafe connector reduces the chances of your pride and joy being yanked off a desk when someone trips over the power cord.

The Apple remote

Here's a pleasant surprise that you won't find with most PC laptop boxes: The remote looks like an iPod Shuffle, but it allows you to control your laptop wireless from across the room. (Think DVD viewings, presentations, and lazy iTunes listening.)

The power button

Yep, you have one of these, too. It's on the upper right, next to the keyboard.

The iSight camera

Have you noticed that tiny square lens above your screen? That's a built-in iSight camera, which allows you to chat with others in a videoconferencing environment using Tiger's iChat feature. You can even take photos with it, using the PhotoBooth software that comes with your laptop, or you can set up a traveling Webcam.

The battery compartment

You can open the cover on the bottom of your laptop to switch batteries. Many road warriors who constantly use their laptops for extended periods swear by extra batteries, especially if they're on site in the middle of nowhere and an AC outlet isn't to be found.

Of course, your laptop automatically charges the battery while it's plugged in, so you shouldn't have to remove the battery unless you're replacing it or switching it with another battery.

Importing Stuff from Another Mac

2007-08-06T13:08:00.001-07:00

If you're upgrading from an older Mac running Mac OS X to your new laptop, here's great news: Apple includes Migration Assistant, a utility application that can help you copy (whoops, migrate) all sorts of data from your old Mac to your new machine. The list of stuff that gets copied includes the following:

User accounts: If you set up multiple user accounts (so that more than one person can share the computer), the utility ports them all to your new Mac.

Network settings: This is a real treat for those with manual network settings provided by an ISP or a network administrator! Migration Assistant can re-create the entire network environment of your old Mac on your new laptop.

System Preference settings: If you're a fan of tweaking and customizing Mac OS X to fit you like a glove, you can rejoice. Migration Assistant copies all the changes that you've made in System Preferences on your old Mac!

Documents: The files in your Documents folders are copied to your new Mac.

Applications: Migration Assistant tries its best to copy the third-party applications that you've installed in your Applications folder on the older Mac. However, you might have to reinstall some applications. Some developers create applications that spread out all sorts of files across your hard drive, and Assistant just can't keep track of those nomadic files. And some other applications make the trek just fine, but you might have to reenter their serial numbers.

Setup launches Migration Assistant automatically if you indicate that you need to transfer stuff during the setup process, but you can always launch Migration Assistant manually at any time. You'll find it in the Utilities folder inside your Applications folder; just double-click the Migration Assistant icon.

To use Migration Assistant to copy your system from your older Mac, you need a FireWire cable to connect the computers. If you don't already have one of these cables, you can pick one up at your local electronics store or computer store. (This cable will probably come in handy in the future as well.)

Sharing Your MacBook via Access Levels

2007-08-06T13:06:00.000-07:00

Perhaps you live in a busy household, with kids, significant others, grandparents, and a wide selection of friends all clamoring for a chance to spend time on the Internet, take care of homework, or enjoy a good game.

On the other hand, your Mac might occupy a classroom or a break room at your office — someplace public — yet everyone wants his or her own private space on your laptop, complete with a reserved spot on the hard drive and a hand-picked attractive desktop background.

Get one thing straight right off the bat: You are the administrator of your laptop. In network-speak, an administrator (or admin for short) is the one who has the power to Do Unto Others — creating new accounts, deciding who gets access to what, and generally running the multiuser show. In other words, think of yourself as the Monarch of Mac OS X (the ruler, not the butterfly).

Only one or perhaps two accounts with administrator-level access should be on any computer. This makes good sense because you can be assured that no one will monkey with your Mac while you're away from the keyboard. Why have a second admin account? You might need to assign a second administrator account to a trusted individual who knows as much about Tiger as you do. That way, if something breaks or an account needs to be tweaked in some way and you're not around, the other person can take care of it while you're gone.

Tiger provides the following three levels of user accounts:

Admin (administrator): See the previous paragraph.

Standard: Perfect for most users, these accounts allow access to just about everything but don't let the user make drastic changes to Tiger or create new accounts.

Managed: These are standard accounts with specific limits assigned by you or by another admin account.

Assign other folks standard-level accounts, and then decide whether each new account needs to be modified to restrict access as a managed account. Never assign an account admin-level access unless you deem it truly necessary.

Standard accounts are quick and easy to set up, and they provide the perfect compromise between access and security. You'll find that standard access allows your users to do just about anything they need to do, with a minimum of hassle.

Managed accounts are highly configurable, so you can make sure that your users don't end up trashing the hard drive, sending junk mail, or engaging in unmonitored chatting. (Note: Parents, teachers, and those folks designing a single public-access account for a library or organization — this means you.)

Tracking Down Your Stolen Mac

2007-08-06T12:52:00.000-07:00

The unthinkable happens: Your laptop is stolen while you're on vacation or on a business trip, and you know that it is not likely to be returned. You've resigned yourself to replacing it (and all your data). But wait! What if you were to receive an email message on your desktop computer that tells you the IP address of the thief, or perhaps even the telephone number he or she is using?

If this scenario sounds a little like a James Bond movie, you'll be surprised to learn that several tracker applications are available for Tiger that can run invisibly on your laptop. A tracker application turns your Mac into a transmitting beacon, advertising its current location and all the Internet information it can get to you — allowing you to alert police and apprehend the crook (who might be in the middle of creating an iPhoto library).

For example, XTool Computer Tracker from XTool Mobile Security sends a signal to the company's security center each time your laptop is connected to the Internet or a telephone line, as well as when the computer is rebooted or a user logs in. In fact, you can even delete files on your laptop remotely, even though you don't have physical control of your Mac! XTool Computer Tracker is relatively inexpensive and can be invaluable for a corporate road warrior or design professional who depends on both the laptop and the irreplaceable data it contains.

How To Locate Your Stolen Mac Laptop - Watch the best video clips here

Stepping through MacBook Troubleshooting

2007-08-06T12:12:00.000-07:00

If rebooting your Mac hasn't solved a particular problem, follow these steps in order until either the solution is found or you run out of steps.

Step 1: Investigate recent changes

This is a simple step that many novice Mac owners forget. Simply retrace your steps and consider what changes you recently made to your system. Here are the most common culprits:

Did you just finish installing a new application?

Did you just apply an update or patch to an application?

Did you just update Tiger using Software Update?

Did you just make a change in System Preferences?

Did you just connect (or reconnect) an external device?

If you haven't made significant changes to your system before you encountered the problem, proceed to the next step.

Step 2: Run Disk Utility

If you're experiencing hard drive problems, consider booting from your Mac OS X Installation CD or DVD to run a full-blown Repair Disk checkup on your boot volume.

Step 3: Check your cables

It's a fact that cables work themselves loose, and they fail from time to time. Check all your cables to your external devices — make sure that they're snug — and verify that everything's plugged in and turned on.

Step 4: Check your trash

Check the contents of your trash to see whether you recently deleted files or folders by accident. Click the Trash icon on the dock once to display the contents. If something's been deleted by mistake, drag it back to its original folder and try running the application again.

Step 5: Check your Internet, wireless, and network connections

Now that always-on DSL and cable modem connections to the Internet are common, don't forget an obvious problem: Your laptop can't reach the Internet because your Internet service provider (ISP) is down!

You can check your Internet connection by pinging Apple.com, as follows:

1. Open your Utilities folder (inside your Applications folder).

2. Double-click Network Utility.

3. Click the Ping tab.

4. Enter www.apple.com in the Address box.

5. Click Ping.

You should see successful ping messages. If you don't, your ISP or network is likely experiencing problems.

Step 6: Think virus

If you've made it to this point, it's time to run a full virus scan — and make sure that your antivirus application has the latest updated data files, too. If a virus is detected and your antivirus application can't remove it, try quarantining it instead — this basically disables the virus-ridden application and prevents it from infecting other files.

Step 7: Disable your login items

Mac OS X may be encountering problems with applications that you've marked as login items in System Preferences. Hold down Shift during startup (if your Mac doesn't display the Login screen) or hold down Shift at the Login screen while you click the Login button.

These tricks disable your account's login items, which run automatically every time you log in to your laptop. If one of these login items is to blame, your Mac will simply encounter trouble — automatically! — every time you log in.

If your laptop works fine with your login items disabled, follow this procedure for each item in the login items list:

1. Open System Preferences, click Accounts, and then click the Login Items button.

2. Delete an item from the list, and then reboot normally.

3. If your Mac doesn't start up normally, go back to Step 2.

4. When your Mac starts up normally with the remaining login items enabled, you've discovered the perpetrator — you'll likely need to delete that application and reinstall it.

5. Don't forget to add each of the working login items back to the Login Items list!

Step 8: Turn off your screen saver

This is a long shot, but it isn't unheard of to discover that a faulty, bug-ridden screen saver has locked up your laptop. Open System Preferences, click Desktop & Screen Saver, click the Screen Saver button, and then do one of the following:

Switch to an Apple screen saver.

Drag the Start slider to Never. If this corrects the problem, you can typically remove the screen saver by deleting the offending saver application in the Screen Savers folder inside your Mac OS X Library folder.

Step 9: Run System Profiler

Ouch. You've reached Step 9, and you still haven't uncovered the culprit. At this point, you've narrowed the possibilities to a serious problem, like corrupted files in your Mac OS X System Folder or hardware that's gone south. Fortunately, Tiger provides you with System Profiler, which displays real-time information on all the hardware in your system. Click the Apple menu and choose About This Mac; then click More Info. Click each one of the Hardware categories in turn, double-checking to make sure that everything looks okay.

Getting Everything in iSync

2007-08-06T12:10:00.000-07:00

ISync is the data transfer and synchronizing utility application that ships with Tiger, and it works fine with both wired and wireless Bluetooth connections. The difference between Bluetooth File Exchange (BFE) and iSync is a matter of intelligence:

BFE merely transfers files and dumps them in the folders you specify.

iSync copies and updates your Address Book, Safari, and iCal information among devices. iSync compares the information on both your laptop and your devices and makes sure that they end up the same.

iSync also allows you to synchronize data among multiple computers using your .Mac membership so that the contacts, bookmarks, and calendar data on your iBook match the data on your Mac. You can control what gets sent from the .Mac pane in System Preferences.

Just because your phone or PDA supports Bluetooth doesn't mean that iSync is guaranteed to work. For a complete list of the Bluetooth phones, PDAs, and other devices that work with iSync, visit Apple.com.

After your supported Bluetooth device is linked to your Mac, follow these steps to add the new device to iSync and synchronize your data:

1. Click the Finder icon on the dock.

2. Click Applications in a Finder window's sidebar, and then double-click iSync.

3. Press Command+N.

4. Click Scan to display any Bluetooth devices in range.

5. Double-click the device you want to use.

The window expands to enable you to specify the data to synchronize. Other settings might appear as well, depending on the device.

6. Select the check boxes for each data type you want to exchange.

7. Click Sync Devices.

Never disconnect a device while a synchronization is in progress — the data being transferred could become corrupt or your laptop could lock up.

Deleting a calendar event or a contact on either your laptop or the Bluetooth device deletes that same data from the other machine! For example, if you decide you no longer need your personal contacts on your Mac at work and you delete them, they'll be deleted from your PDA when you synchronize.

Using the Go Menu in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T12:08:00.000-07:00

Remember the transporter from Star Trek? Step on the little platform, assume a brave pose, and whoosh! — you're transported instantaneously to another ship or (more likely) to a badly designed planet exterior built inside a soundstage. Talk about convenience . . . that is, as long as the doggone thing didn't malfunction.

The Finder's Go menu gives you the chance to play Captain Kirk: You can jump immediately to specific spots, both within the confines of your own system as well as external environments like your network or the Internet. (You can leave your phaser and tricorder in your cabin.)

The destinations that you can travel to using the Go menu and the iDisk submenu include the following:

Back/Forward/Enclosing Folder: These three commands are all basic navigation commands. For example, Back and Forward operate just like they do in Safari or your favorite Web browser. If you're currently inside a folder, you can return to the parent folder by clicking Enclosing Folder.

Computer: This window includes your hard drives, CD and DVD drives, and your network — the same places that appear when you open a new Finder window with the Command+N key shortcut.

Home: This window displays the home directory for the user currently logged in.

Network: Did you guess that this one displays a window with all your network connections? Dead giveaway, that.

iDisk: This window displays the contents of your Internet iDisk storage (or someone else's).

Applications: This window includes all the applications that appear in your Mac OS X Applications folder (a neat Just the programs, ma'am arrangement that really comes in handy).

Utilities: This window displays all the utilities in your Mac OS X Utilities folder.

Recent Folders: This window displays a submenu that allows you to choose from the folders that you've recently opened.

You can also type the path for a specific folder (use the Go to Folder command) or connect to a specific network server (use the Connect to Server command).

Note that most of the Go menu commands include keyboard shortcuts, proving once again that the fingers are quicker than the mouse.

Enabling Mac OS X Panther Exposé

2007-08-06T12:02:00.000-07:00

Brand new to Mac OS X Panther is a window-management system called Exposé, which enables you to access and switch among open windows either throughout the entire operating system or just in the current application. It also gives you immediate access to the Desktop.

You enable and control Exposé from the Exposé panel, which appears under the Personal section of System Preferences.

1. Open System Preferences by going to the Apple menu or clicking its icon in the Dock.

2. Click Exposé.

3. In the Exposé panel that appears (see Figure 1), set the corner activation settings for Exposé as follows:

Exposé, like a screen saver, can use a feature called hot corners. Hot corners are just the corners of your screen that have been assigned special meaning. Moving the cursor into a certain corner activates a function; moving it out of the corner deactivates that function. For example, if you are in Safari, moving into one corner might reveal the Desktop. When you move the cursor back out, Safari is revealed again. Before you can use any hot corner, though, you need to assign functions to them, in the Exposé panel.

Figure 1: The Exposé panel.

• You can set one corner to show every open window (All Windows).

• You can set another corner to reveal every open window for the currently active application (Application Windows).

• You can set another corner to access the Desktop (Desktop).

The drop-down lists in this dialog correspond to their positions onscreen. In other words, the upper-left drop-down list controls the upper-left corner of your screen, and so on.

4. Use the drop-down lists in the Keyboard section of the Exposé panel to set your function keys for these same purposes.

The Exposé panel also allows you to set hot corners to start and disable the screen saver. These controls are duplicated — even for Exposé — under the Desktop & Screen Saver Control Panel.

You might find all these options intimidating. Here are some good rules for customizing Exposé:

You might want to skip setting a Desktop shortcut in Exposé because you can also access the Desktop by clicking on it or by clicking the Finder icon in the Dock.

Because the All Windows and Application Windows features are very similar, place the hot corners on the same side of the screen and use contiguous function keys for them.

If your function keys aren't readily accessible (or, as with laptops, require the use of the fn key to work), avoid setting the function key shortcuts.

If your function keys are already being used for other purposes, skip setting the function keys and just use the hot corners instead.

If your function keys are already being used for other purposes, you can add a modifier key to the keyboard shortcut by holding down the Shift, Command, Option, or Control key while you select the corresponding function key (see Figure 2).

Figure 2: Exposé can also be triggered by using the function keys and a modifier key.

Users with multiple displays probably still have only four corners, even though it might seem that you physically have eight.

Strange as it may seem, some multiple-display users might have five or more screen corners. If the two displays aren't aligned exactly, there can be an extra corner or two between the two displays, as shown in Figure 3. This isn't necessarily a problem or an asset but just a curiosity you should be aware of.

If you have a Mac with a small display (like an iBook or the 12-inch PowerBook), you might find the hot corners a nuisance. They tend to do funny Exposé things when your cursor (even accidentally) nears a corner.

If you have a multi-button input device, you can set the extra buttons to trigger Exposé, with or without modifier keys (see Figure 4).

The most natural way to trigger Exposé is probably to use the hot corners with the mouse. For many people, the function keys aren't as easy to access and use as the mouse is.

Figure 3: The arrangement of your displays dictates how many corners your system has.

Figure 4: Modifier keys and extra mouse buttons can be set to use Exposé.

Covering Common Mac Problems

2007-08-06T11:53:00.000-07:00

our computer won't have to visit the emergency room or undergo major surgery, but a little first aid is probably in order here and there. The solutions to several Mac problems are offered in the following sections.

Fixing a jumpy mouse

Dealing with a stuck CD

When your Mac won't spit out a disc, take a stab at one of these fixes:

Quit the program that's using the disc, and then press Eject on the keyboard.

Open a Finder window, and click the little Eject icon in the sidebar. Or, try dragging the disc icon from the Mac desktop to the trash.

Log out of your user account (under the Mac menu), and then press Eject on the keyboard.

Restart the computer while holding down the mouse button.

Fixing your Mac's clock

Making programs open nonnative files

Here's what to do:

1. Highlight the icon of the program that you want to be opened by a different application and press Command+I.

2. In the Get Info panel that appears, click the right-facing triangle next to Open With and choose the application to handle the document from here on out.

3. If you want the application to open each and every file you beckon in the future, click Change All.

Handling kernel clink

Out of the blue, you are asked to restart your computer — in numerous languages, no less. Your machine has been hit with a kernel panic. The probable cause is corrupted or incompatible software.

Fixing DNS problems

Curing the trash can blues

Try junking the files by holding down the Option key when you choose Empty Trash.

Displaying the Facts on Files and Folders in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T11:51:00.000-07:00

The Finder's Info dialog is the place to view the specifics on any highlighted item (including drives and aliases). Select an item and press Command+I, click the Action toolbar button, and select Get Info from the list, or choose the Finder's File menu and then choose Get Info (see the results in Figure 1). If you select more than one item, the Info dialog box combines as many properties as possible to give you a summary.

Mac OS X displays the General information panel when you first open the Info dialog box, but other panels are usually available (depending on the type of selected items). To display the other panels, click the panel that you want to see.

Figure 1: The General Information panel appears first when you display the Info dialog box.

For most types of files and folders, the Info dialog box can tell you

Kind: What type of item it is — for example, whether it's a file, folder, drive, or alias — and what program automatically launches when you open the selected item

Size: The total size of the item (or items) that you select

Where: The actual path on your hard drive where the item is located

Dates: The date when the item was created and was last modified

Version: The application version number

Permission: The privileges that control who can do what to the file and whether a file is locked in read-only mode

You can change some of this information, but some you can only display. To banish the Info dialog box from your Desktop, click the dialog box's Close button.

If you use a specific document over and over as a basis for different revisions, you can enable the Stationery Pad check box on the General information panel to use the file as stationery. Opening a stationery file automatically creates a new, untitled version of the file in the linked application, which can save you steps compared with duplicating the file or using the Save As procedure.

You can accomplish a number of tasks from the Info dialog box.

Adding comments

Mac OS X provides you with a comment field where you can add additional text that's stored along with the file (and can be matched with Spotlight). You can use this feature to record the version number of documents you create.

To add a comment, follow these steps:

1. Display the Info dialog box for the item by pressing Command+I or choosing File --> Get Info.

2. Click in the Spotlight Comments box and type the comment text.

If you need to expand the Spotlight Comments section of the Info dialog box, click the triangle next to the Spotlight Comments heading. The arrow rotates, and the Spotlight Comments box appears.

3. Close the Info dialog box to save the comment.

Displaying extensions

Extensions are alien creatures to most Mac owners. However, these three- or four-character add-ons that follow a period at the end of a filename have been a mainstay in the DOS, Windows, and UNIX environments for years. An extension identifies what program owns a specific file and therefore which application launches automatically when you double-click that file's icon. Examples of common extensions (and the applications that own them) include

.pdf: Adobe Acrobat

.doc: Microsoft Word

.pages: Apple Pages

.key: Apple Keynote

.psd: Adobe Photoshop

.jpeg or .jpg: Preview, or your image editor

.tiff or .tif: Preview, or your image editor

.htm or .html: Safari, or your Web browser of choice

Why would someone want to see a file's extension? It comes in handy when a number of different types of files are linked to the same application. For example, if you install Adobe Photoshop, both JPEG and TIFF images have the same icon, so you can't tell one from the other. With extensions displayed, it's easy to tell what type of file you're looking at.

Follow this procedure to hide or display extensions with your filenames:

1. Display the Info dialog box for the item by pressing Command+I or choosing File --> Get Info.

2. If you need to expand the Name & Extension section of the Info dialog box, click the triangle next to the Name & Extension heading.

3. To display the extension for the selected file, clear the Hide Extension check box to disable it.

4. Close the Info dialog box to save your changes.

Locking files against evildoers

Every Mac owner needs to know how to protect files and folders from accidental deletion or editing. By locking a file, you allow it to be opened and copied — but not changed, renamed, or sent to the Trash. Locked items appear in the Finder with a small padlock attached to the icon.

To lock or unlock a file, you have to have ownership of the file. On a Mac where you've configured only one administrator account, you should already have ownership. Follow this procedure:

1. Display the Info dialog box for the item.

2. Select the Locked check box to enable it.

The Locked check box is in the General section of the dialog box.

3. Close the Info dialog box to save your changes

Adding and Removing Dock Icons in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T11:42:00.000-07:00

Take a minute to look at the row of icons at the bottom of your display. That row is the Dock, and those individual pictures are known as icons.

Dock icons are a quick way to bring a hidden window or application to the front so that you can work with it again. Dock icons are odd ducks — they're activated with a single-click. Most icons are selected (highlighted) when you single click and opened when you double-click. So Dock icons are kind of like links on a Web page — you need only a single click to open them.

You can customize your Dock with favorite applications, a document you update daily, or maybe a folder containing your favorite recipes — use the Dock for anything you need quick access to. Here's how you can add an icon to the Dock or remove a Dock icon you no longer desire.

Adding an icon to the Dock

Adding an application, file, or folder to the Dock is as easy as 1-2-3. First, open a Finder window that contains an application, file, folder, URL, or disk icon that you use frequently. Then follow these steps to add it to the Dock:

1. Click the item you want to add to the Dock.

2. Drag the icon out of the Finder window and onto the Dock, as shown in Figure 1.

3. An icon for this item now appears on the Dock.

Folder, disk, and URL icons must be on the right of the divider line in the Dock; Application icons must be on the left of it.

Figure 1: Drag an icon onto the Dock to add it.

You can add several items at the same time to the Dock by selecting them all and dragging the group to the Dock. However, you can delete only one icon at a time from the Dock.

Removing an icon from the Dock

To remove an item from the Dock, just drag its icon onto the Desktop. It disappears with a cool poof animation, as shown in Figure 2.

Figure 2: To remove an icon, drag it off the Dock and POOF — it's gone.

By moving an icon out of the Dock, you aren't moving, deleting, or copying the item itself — you're just removing its icon from the Dock. The item is unchanged. Think of it like a library catalog card: Just because you remove the card from the card catalog doesn't mean that the book is gone from the library.

After you figure out which programs you use and don't use, it's a good idea to relieve overcrowding by removing the ones you never (or rarely) use.

Knowing what to put in your Dock

Put things on the Dock that you need quick access to and that you use often, or add items that aren't quickly available from menus or the sidebar. If you like using the Dock better than the Finder window sidebar, for example, add your Documents, Movies, Pictures, Music, or even your hard disk to the Dock.

Consider adding these items to your Dock:

A word-processing application: Most people use word-processing software more than any other application.

A project folder: You know, the folder that contains all the documents for your thesis, or the biggest project you have at work, or your massive recipe collection . . . whatever. Add that folder to the Dock, and then you can access it much quicker than if you have to open several folders to find it.

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A special utility or application: You may want to add your favorite graphics application such as Photoshop, or the game you play every afternoon when you think the boss isn't watching.

Your favorite URLs: Save links to sites that you visit every day — ones that you use in your job, your favorite Mac news sites, or your personalized page from an Internet service provider (ISP). Sure, you can make one of these pages your browser's start page or bookmark it, but the Dock lets you add one or more additional URLs.

Here's how to quickly add a URL to the Dock. Open Safari and go to the page with a URL that you want to save on the Dock. Click and drag the small icon that you find at the left of the URL in the Address bar to the right side of the dividing line in the Dock (at the arrow's head in Figure 3) and then release the mouse button. The icons in the Dock will slide over and make room for your URL. From now on, when you click the URL icon that you moved to your Dock, Safari opens to that page.

Figure 3: To save a URL to your Dock, drag its little icon from the Address bar to the right side of the Dock.

You can add several URL icons to the Dock, but bear in mind that the Dock and its icons shrink to accommodate added icons, thus making them harder to see. Perhaps the best idea — if you want easy access to several URLs — is to create a folder full of URLs and put that folder on the Dock. Then you can just press and hold your mouse pointer on the folder (or Control-click the folder) to pop up a menu with all your URLs.

Even though you can make the Dock smaller, you're still limited to one row of icons. The smaller you make the Dock, the larger the crowd of icons you can amass. You have to determine for yourself what's best for you: having lots of icons available on the Dock (even though they may be difficult to see because they're so tiny) or having less clutter but fewer icons on your Dock

Using Safari's Tabbed Browsing in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T11:40:00.000-07:00

Safari offers tabbed browsing, which many folks use to display (and organize) multiple Web pages at one time. For example, if you're doing a bit of comparison shopping for a new piece of hardware between different online stores, tabs are ideal.

When you hold down the Command key and click a link or bookmark using tabs, a tab representing the new page appears under the Bookmarks bar. Just click the tab to switch to that page. (If you don't hold down Command, things revert to business as usual, and Safari replaces the contents of the window with the new page.)

To turn on tabbed browsing, choose Safari --> Preferences to display the Preferences dialog box; then click Tabs. From here, select the Enable Tabbed Browsing check box to turn on tabs.

Done with a page? You can remove a tabbed page by clicking the X button next to the tab's title.

Using the Safari Web Browser in Mac OS X Tiger

2007-08-06T11:38:00.000-07:00

Safari is the Web browser installed with Mac OS X Tiger. Before you can browse the Web, the first step is to open your Web browser. No problem. As usual, there's more than one way. You can launch Safari with one of these methods:

Clicking the Safari icon on the Dock (look for the big blue compass)

Double-clicking the Safari icon in your Applications folder

Single-clicking a URL link in an e-mail or other document

Double-clicking a URL link document in the Finder

When you first launch Safari, it automatically connects you to the Internet and displays the default Apple home page.

If a dialog box pops up asking whether you'd like to set Safari as your default browser, click Yes. If you later change your mind and would prefer a different browser to be your default, you can change it in the Internet System Preference pane.

Playing with buttons

The buttons along the top of the window from left to right — Back/Forward, Reload/Stop, and Add Bookmark — do pretty much what their names imply. Other available buttons include Home, AutoFill, Text Size, Print, and Bug (report a bug to Apple); you add or delete them using Customize Address Bar in Safari's View menu.

Below the Address field are some "bookmark" buttons that take you directly to pages that may interest you, such as the Apple Web site, the Apple .Mac Web site, Amazon.com, eBay, Yahoo, and others.

The News item in this row of buttons is a pop-up (actually a pop-down) menu. Clicking any of these buttons or choosing one of the items in the News (or a different) menu transports you to that page.

Trying out the Address field

To the right of the top row of buttons is the Address field. This is where you type Web addresses, or URLs (Uniform Resource Locators), that you want to visit. Just type one in and press Return to surf to that site.

Web addresses almost always begin with http://www. But Safari has a cool trick: If you just type a name, you usually get to the appropriate Web site that way — without typing http, //, or www. For example, if you type apple in the Address field and then press Return, you go to Apple's home page. Try it — it's pretty slick.

Navigating bookmarks

Choosing Bookmarks --> Show All Bookmarks, typing the keyboard shortcut Command+Option+B, or clicking the Show All Bookmarks button (shown in margin) brings up the Bookmarks window.

You can view the contents of any Collection (that is, a folder full of bookmarks) by clicking its name in the Collections pane. Here are the basics of navigating bookmarks:

Open bookmarked pages by double-clicking them.

Use the Bookmarks menu to add bookmarks or folders.

Move bookmarks by dragging them. You can place bookmarks and folders of bookmarks on the Safari Bookmarks Bar or Menu by dragging them to the appropriate folder. If you drag a folder of bookmarks to the Bookmarks Bar folder (or directly onto the Bookmarks Bar itself), the result is a drop-down menu.

To delete a bookmark, select it and then press Delete or Backspace.

Bookmarks are favorites, and favorites are bookmarks. Both words describe the same exact thing — shortcuts to Web sites. Safari calls them bookmarks. Some other browsers call them Favorites.

Your copy of Safari comes pre-loaded with bookmarks that take you to other nifty Mac sites to check out. You'll find links to Apple sites, hardware and software vendors, Mac publications, and more. Take a look at the list of great Web pages that your pals at Apple have put together. Be sure to explore all the included bookmarks when you have some time; most, if not all, are worth knowing more about.

Understanding RSS feeds

One of the bigger buzzes in Web browsing these days (other than blogs, a form of Web-published personal journal) is RSS, which stands for Really Simple Syndication (according to most people who know about it). You see synopses of what's available at the site providing the RSS feed — which gives you an adjustable-length overview with a link to the full story. When a Web page has an RSS feed (that's what the special RSS links are called) associated, you'll see a little RSS icon at the right end of the address bar. Click it and you'll see all the RSS synopses for the site.

If you like this RSS thing (and why wouldn't you?), Safari includes plenty of interesting feeds to choose from. Click the little book icon (below the Back arrow near the top of the window), and then click All RSS Feeds collection on the left. The list of available RSS feeds will appear on the right; double-click one or more items in the Bookmark list to see its feed.

Surfing Securely with Safari in Mac OS X

2007-08-06T11:37:00.000-07:00

If you're surfing the Internet with Safari, you need to consider security, both against outside intrusion from the Internet and prying eyes around your Mac. Protecting your privacy is of utmost importance.

Although diminutive, the tiny padlock icon that appears in the top-right corner of the Safari window when you're connected to a secure Web site means a great deal! A secure site encrypts the information that you send and receive, making it much harder for those of unscrupulous ideals to obtain things like credit-card numbers and personal information.

Yes, there are such things as bad cookies

First, a definition of this ridiculous term: A cookie, a small file that a Web site automatically saves on your hard drive, contains information that the site will use on your future visits. For example, a site may save a cookie to preserve your site preferences for the next time or to identify you automatically and help customize the offerings that you see.

In and of themselves, cookies aren't bad things. Unlike a virus, a cookie file isn't going to replicate itself or wreak havoc on your system, and only the original site can read the cookie that it creates. However, many folks don't appreciate acting as a gracious host for a slew of little snippets of personal information. Also, if you do a large amount of surfing, cookies can occupy a significant amount of your hard drive space over time. (Not to mention that some cookies have highly suggestive names, which could lead to all sorts of conclusions. End of story.)

You can choose to accept all cookies — the default — or you can opt to disable cookies altogether. You can also set Safari to accept all cookies. To change your Cookie Acceptance Plan, follow these steps:

1. Choose Safari --> Preferences.

2. Click the Security toolbar button.

Safari displays the preference settings shown in Figure 1.

Figure 1: Exploring the contents of a cookie jar.

3. Choose how to accept cookies via these radio button choices:

• Never: Block cookies entirely.

• Always: Accept all cookies.

• Only from Sites You Navigate To: The default option, which allows sites to work correctly without allowing a barrage of illicit cookies.

4. To view the cookies currently on your system, click the Show Cookies button.

The site that used that cookie will forget any information that it stored in the file, meaning that you may have to take care of things manually, like providing a password on the site that used to be read automatically from the cookie.

5. Click the Close button to save your changes.

Cleaning your cache

Safari speeds up the loading of Web sites by storing often-used images and multimedia files in a temporary storage, or cache, folder. Naturally, the files in your cache folder can be displayed (hint), which may lead to assumptions (hint, hint) about the sites you've been visiting (hint, hint, hint).

Luckily, Safari makes it easy to dump the contents of your cache file. Just choose Safari --> Empty Cache; then click Empty to confirm that you want to clean up your cache.

Handling ancient history

As you may imagine, your History file leaves a very clear set of footprints indicating where you've been on the Web. To delete the contents of the History menu, choose History --> Clear History.

Another built-in security feature can also help save your sanity: Safari can block those incredibly irritating pop-up advertisement windows that are automatically displayed by some Web sites. Click Safari and choose Block Pop-Up Windows or press Command+K — in case you're visiting a site that actually uses pop-up windows to your advantage, you can toggle off the block feature temporarily.

Avoiding those @*!^%$ pop-up ads

Like most people, you probably hate pop-up ads. To block most of those pop-up windows with advertisements for everything from low-rate mortgages to "sure-thing" Internet casinos, click the Safari menu and click Block Pop-Up Windows to toggle the menu item on.

From time to time, you may run across a Web site that actually does something constructive with pop-up windows, such as present a download or login prompt. If you need to temporarily deactivate pop-up blocking, press Command+K to toggle it off. Then press Command +K again to turn pop-up blocking back on after you've finished with the site.

Adding and Using Bookmarks in Mac OS X's Safari

2007-08-06T11:35:00.000-07:00

No doubt about it: Bookmarks make the Web a friendly place. As you collect bookmarks in Safari, you're able to immediately jump from one site to another with a single click on the Bookmarks menu or the buttons on the Bookmarks bar.

To add a bookmark, first navigate to the desired page and then do any of the following:

Choose Bookmarks --> Add Bookmark.

Press the Command+D keyboard shortcut.

Safari displays a sheet where you can enter the name for the bookmark and also select where it will appear (on the Bookmarks bar or the Bookmarks menu).

Drag the icon next to the Web address from the Address bar to the Bookmarks bar.

You can also drag a link on the current page to the Bookmarks bar, but note that doing so only adds a bookmark for the page corresponding to the link — not the current page.

To jump to a bookmark:

Choose it from the Bookmarks menu.

If the bookmark is contained in a folder, move your mouse pointer over the folder name to show its contents and then click the bookmark.

Click the bookmark on the Bookmarks bar.

If you've added a large number of items to the Bookmarks bar, click the More icon on the edge of the Bookmarks bar to display the rest of the buttons.

Click the Show All Bookmarks button (which looks like a small opened book) on the Bookmarks bar and then click the desired bookmark.

The Bookmarks window that you see in Figure 1 appears, where you can review each collection of bookmarks at leisure.

Figure 1: The Bookmarks window puts all your bookmarks within easy reach.

The more bookmarks that you add, the more unwieldy the Bookmarks menu and the Bookmarks window become. To keep things organized, choose Bookmarks --> Add Bookmark Folder and then type a name for the new folder. With folders, you can organize your bookmarks into collections, which appear in the column at the left of the Bookmarks window (or as separate submenus within the Bookmarks menu). You can drag bookmarks within the new folder to help reduce the clutter. To delete a bookmark or a folder from the Bookmarks window, click it and then press Delete

Synchronizing a MacBook and Bluetooth Device with iSync

2007-08-06T11:34:00.000-07:00

iSync is the data-transfer and synchronizing utility application that ships with OS X Tiger (the operating system that the MacBook uses), and it works fine with both wired and wireless Bluetooth connections. The difference between Bluetooth File Exchange (BFE) and iSync is a matter of intelligence:

BFE merely transfers files and dumps them in the folders you specify.

iSync copies and updates your Address Book, Safari, and iCal information between devices. iSync compares the information on both your laptop and your devices and makes sure they end up the same.

iSync also allows you to synchronize data between multiple computers using your .Mac membership so that the contacts, bookmarks, and calendar data on your iBook match the data on your Mac. You can control what gets sent from the .Mac pane in System Preferences.

After your supported Bluetooth device is linked to your Mac, follow these steps to add the new device to iSync and synchronize your data:

1. Click the Finder icon on the dock.

2. Click Applications in a Finder window's sidebar, and then double-click iSync.

3. Press Command+N.

4. Click Scan to display any Bluetooth devices in range.

5. Double-click the device you want to use.

The window expands to allow you to specify the data to synchronize. Other settings might appear as well, depending on the device.

6. Select the check boxes for each data type you want to exchange.

7. Click Sync Devices.

Keep in mind that you should never disconnect a device while a synchronization is in progress — the data being transferred could become corrupt or your laptop could lock up. Patience pays off big time in this case.

iPhone Poised at Top of Class

2007-08-06T11:23:00.000-07:00

Apparently, Apple CEO Steve Jobs didn't get around to mentioning all the features of the iPhone when he unveiled the company's prized gem at the Macworld conference last January — at least according to a spoof commercial that's being circulated on YouTube. It seems the widely anticipated gadget — which will boast a widescreen iPod, Internet communicator, and digital camera — also serves as a bottle-opener, electric shaver, cheese grater and children's thermometer.

And you thought your cell phone was versatile.

Even without those make-believe features, among the class of handsets dubbed smartphones, iPhone has all the makings of a Phi Beta Kappa. I'm often asked what makes a smartphone, anyway. I've always thought of them as phones that pile on a bunch of features and excel at e-mail. Apple enters the freshman class with neat capabilities that may help redefine the category.

Here are a few key features:

Finger-controlled touch-screen. Virtually every cell phone in the world has a physical (typically plastic) dialing keypad, if not also a more complete QWERTY-style keyboard to help you bang out e-mails and text messages. With iPhone, Apple adheres to an old company-advertising slogan, to "Think Different." So, with the lone exception of a "home button," iPhone dispenses with all physical keys and buttons. Instead, only the buttons and controls you need in the context of what you are doing show up virtually on iPhone's 3.5-inch multi-touch screen display.

Don't bother searching for a pen-like stylus to manipulate those controls. Apple wants you to navigate with the ultimate pointing device — your finger. It's all deliciously simple: You make calls by pointing at a name or number. And since iPhone isn't just about telephone functions, you can also use your finger to flick through album covers and songs, photos, and to zoom in on Web pages through an iPhone version of the Safari Web browser.

For sure some people will miss a physical keypad. Lots of people make calls on cell phones today without even looking at the handset. They rely on tactile feedback. That doesn't seem possible with iPhone. I'm expecting third-party companies — and who knows, maybe Apple itself — to produce physical keyboard accessories of one type or another.

Visual voice-mail. You know the drill all too well. You must typically wade through all your voice-mail messages in the order in which calls were received rather than give priority to messages that matter most — those from your spouse, your kids, your boss. Through a clever visual voice-mail feature, you can peruse a list of the callers who left messages (assuming their names are known through caller ID) and select the ones you want to listen to first.

Sensible sensors. Talk about cell phone smarts, iPhone has internal sensors to make sure the device is always oriented properly and the screen looks its best:

Accelerometer sensor. iPhone knows when you've rotated the screen from portrait to landscape mode and alters the content of the display accordingly.
Ambient light. The display is adjusted based on the ambient light where you are using iPhone.
Proximity. I think this is the coolest one in principle. A proximity sensor automatically detects when you hold iPhone up to your ear. And when you do so, it knows enough the turn off the display to save power and prevent you from accidentally hitting onscreen controls. Move iPhone away from your ear and the screen wakes up.

Things You Should Know About the iPhone

2007-08-06T11:21:00.000-07:00

What will it take to make you the proud owner of Apple's sizzlin' hot iPhone? Here are some prerequisites to your purchase (including the amount of change you'll have to shake loose from your piggybank).

Wireless service in the United States will be provided exclusively by Cingular (aka AT&T).
The iPhone includes support for quad-band GSM, EDGE, 802.11b/g Wi-Fi and Bluetooth 2.0 EDR wireless technologies.
Internet access is required and a broadband connection is recommended.
4GB model: $499.
8GB model: $599.
Both models will be sold in the US through Apple and Cingular retail and online stores.

You'll also need either:

A Mac with a USB 2.0 port, Mac OS X v10.4.8 or later and iTunes 7.
or
A Windows PC with a USB 2.0 port and Windows 2000 (Service Pack 4), Windows XP Home or Professional (Service Pack 2).

iPhone's Big Three Features

2007-08-06T11:19:00.001-07:00

iPod

On the iPod front, iPhone lets you enjoy all of your existing iPod content, including music, audiobooks, podcasts, video podcasts, music videos, television shows, and movies, which iPhone can grab from your iTunes library (Mac or PC).

Phone/Camera

On the phone side, iPhone synchronizes with the contacts and calendars on your Mac or PC. It includes a full-featured QWERTY soft keyboard, which makes text messaging easier than ever before. There's also a 2 megapixel digital camera and a sophisticated photo management application, which makes taking and managing digital photos a pleasure instead the nightmare it can be on other phones.

Internet

iPhone is a full-featured Internet communication device with a rich HTML e-mail client that is compatible with most POP and IMAP mail services. There's also a special version of Mac OS X's world-class Web browser, Safari, which makes Web surfing enjoyable and easy, which is very unlike other phones. Another cool Internet feature is a killer mapping application based on Google Maps, which lets you view maps, driving directions, satellite imagery, and traffic information regardless of where in the U.S. you happen to be.

Drumroll: Introducing Apple's iPhone

2007-08-06T11:17:00.000-07:00

You've surely heard about the hot new Apple iPhone by now, unless, of course, you've been hibernating or vacationing off-planet since January. As one of just a few people who have actually laid hands on a working iPhone, I've been asked roughly a zillion questions about it over the past few months. Here's my insight into what it is, what it does, and why it rocks.

When Steve Jobs introduced iPhone in his Macworld Expo keynote address last January, he said he was proud to introduce three revolutionary new products:

A wide screen iPod with touch controls
A mobile telephone with a built-in digital camera
and
A breakthrough Internet communications device

The kicker was that all three products are a single device — iPhone.

Perhaps the most unique feature is that iPhone has no physical buttons and no stylus. Rather, it has a 3.5-inch super high-resolution (160 pixels per inch) touch screen that you operate using a pointing device you're already intimately familiar with, namely, your finger. I'm guessing that you've never seen a more beautiful display on a hand-held device in your life.

Another feature that knocked my socks off were iPhone's three built-in sensors. There's an accelerometer, which detects when you rotate the device from portrait to landscape mode and automatically adjusts what's on the display accordingly. There's a proximity sensor, which detects when the iPhone gets near your face so it can turn off the display to save power and prevent accidental touches. And there's an ambient light sensor, which adjusts the display's brightness based on the current ambient lighting situation. Let's see your Motorola Razr or RIM Blackberry do that!

Bottom line: There's never been a mobile phone like iPhone. For additional information, point your browser to http://www.apple.com/iphone/.

Selecting a Location for Your Own Geocache

2007-08-05T15:05:00.000-07:00

Just like in real estate or retail sales, location is everything when it comes to placing a geocache. After you select a container, figure out where to put it — or sometimes you find a perfect hiding place and then select an appropriate container to go with it. The location of your cache usually defines its success and popularity. Take a look at some hiding place considerations.
Where to hide your cache

Start out by doing some initial research to find a good, general area to hide your cache. For many geocachers, visiting a new place with some unique feature, incredible scenery, or just a plain gorgeous view is every bit as important as finding the cache. Keep this in mind as you use maps, travel guides, or fond memories from your own explorations to help you select a good cache location.

An important part of your homework is learning where caches are and are not permitted. The majority of the geocaching community tends to be very aware that the continued growth and success of the sport depend on good relationships with landowners and managers.

If you want to place a cache on private property, always first ask the owner's permission. Because geocaching is so new, many people don't know what it is, so take the time to explain how the sport works.

Most geocaches are placed on federal, state, county, or municipal public land. However, just because it's public doesn't necessarily mean that placing a geocache is permitted.

Always try to verify that the agency that manages the land allows geocaching. You can contact the agency directly, try a Google search to see whether its geocaching policies are published on the Web, or talk with other geocachers in your area to get their experiences in dealing with different agencies. For example, the U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) recognizes geocaching as a recreational activity and tends to be friendly toward cache hiders who want to locate a cache in places other than wilderness or wilderness study areas. The U.S. National Park Service, on the other hand, prohibits placing geocaches on the land that it manages; if you're caught hiding a cache on such land, it's a federal offense. Yipes!

Many of the problems that geocachers have had with public land managers stem from a lack of education on the government employee's part about geocaching. It's worthwhile to educate land managers about the sport so they clearly understand the impacts and can make informed and wise decisions on whether to allow geocaching. Although some people in the geocaching community ardently believe they should have a Constitutional right to hide and find caches, a little more middle-of-the-road approach is useful when dealing with land managers.
Where not to hide your cache

There are definitely some places you don't want to hide your cache. To be listed in the Geocaching.com database, your cache needs to meet certain, common-sense criteria. Generally a cache can't be

* Buried: Covering it with branches, leaves, or rocks is okay, but no digging, please.

* Placed in environmentally sensitive areas: This includes areas with endangered plants and animals as well as archaeological and historic sites. Some things that can clue you in to an area possibly being environmentally sensitive include

• Waterholes

• Wetlands

• Guano- (bat or bird excrement) stained rock outcrops

• Areas where soil and vegetation will be significantly impacted by trampling

• Any place where human activity will distress wildlife. (If a large bird is screaming at you, that's a big hint.)

Land management agencies might not publicly identify sensitive environmental areas on the Internet or on paper maps because it's an open invitation to poachers and vandals (who tend to ruin things for the rest of us). However, usually by applying common sense and observing your surroundings, you can tell whether an area is sensitive, regardless of whether it's marked as such or not.

* Placed in national parks or designated wilderness areas: This is a no-no. Sorry; them's the rules.

* Placed within 150 feet of railroad tracks: This is for safety reasons as well as some legal ones.

* Placed anywhere that might cause concerns about possible terrorist activities: Use your post-9/11 brain. No-no areas include near airports, tunnels, bridges, military facilities, municipal water supplies, and government buildings. Remember, when it comes to certain things, the authorities tend not to have a very good sense of humor.

* Placed within one-tenth of a mile of another cache: This is a rule for adding a cache to the Geocaching.com database as well as simple geocaching etiquette.

The geocaching community tends to police itself fairly well. If you try to bend the rules and put a cache where it shouldn't be, someone will probably let the Geocaching.com administrators know about it, and the cache will be removed from the database.
Hiding for seekers

After you select a good general location to put the geocache (forest, park, beach, and so forth), look around to find the perfect place to hide the cache. The simple rule for a hiding place is that the cache shouldn't be easily visible to a passerby who's not looking for the cache. Use your creativity to find a challenging hiding place: in a tree hollow, underneath bushes, wedged in rocks, and so on. Remember: The more experience you have finding caches, the more ideas you'll have for good hiding places of your own.

When you hide the cache, always watch out for Muggles (non-geocachers) in the area. Be stealthy so your cache isn't discovered before you get a chance to submit it to the Geocaching.com database.
Recording the location

After you locate that perfect, secret hiding spot, you need to determine the cache's location coordinates as precisely as possible. This can be challenging because of less-than-perfect satellite coverage. You might find the location's coordinates changing on your GPS receiver every few seconds. Many GPS units have an averaging feature that compares coordinates at a single spot over a period of time and then averages the result. If your receiver does do averaging, get it as close to the cache as possible, let it sit for five or ten minutes, and then copy down the cache coordinates and enter them as a waypoint.

A manual approach to averaging is to set a waypoint for the cache location, walk away, and then come back and set another waypoint. Repeat this until you have 6-12 waypoints; then examine the list of waypoints, and pick the one that looks the most accurate (generally, the value in the middle of the list).

During certain times of the day, you might have better satellite coverage than others. This is because of the number of satellites that are in view and the position of a single satellite relative to your GPS receiver and the other satellites in the constellation. If you want to get really precise with recording your cache coordinates, select a time of the day with optimal satellite coverage. Trimble Navigation, one of the largest manufacturers of commercial and professional GPS receivers, has a free Windows program called Planning, designed for surveyors who need to know when the best time is to use GPS surveying instruments.

Selecting a Geocache to Look For

2007-08-05T15:02:00.000-07:00

After you get all your gear together, ready to venture out into the wilds, comes this one small detail: How do you know where to look for a geocache?

Like most other modern-day searches for information, start with the Internet. Many Web sites have listings of geocaching caches.

Geocaching.com is currently the most widely used site and has the largest database of geocaches all over the world. However, if you use another geocaching Web site, you'll find most of the same general techniques described here for selecting a cache also apply to other sites.

You can set up a free user account on Geocaching.com to log caches that you find, as well as to be informed of new caches that are placed in your area. Anyone with Internet access can freely view the cache locations without an account. The site owner also has Premium Member subscription services ($30 per year) and sells products to help keep the site running.

To start, go to the site. Finding caches is as simple as entering the ZIP code for where you're interested in geocaching. You can also search for caches by state, city, country, latitude, longitude, or by street address (only in the United States).

After you enter where you'd like to search for caches, a list of geocaches in that area is displayed. The list is sorted by how far away the cache is from the search criteria you entered; the closest geocaches are displayed first. The name and type of the cache is shown, when it was first placed, when it was found last, and how difficult the cache is to get to and find. You can scroll through the list of geocaches until you find one that looks interesting. Cache names that are lined out are no longer active.

Just click the name of a cache displayed in the list about which you want more information to see a page with the following information.

Cache name: The name of the cache (usually the cache name has something to do with the area where it's hidden, who hid it, or a play on words). Bonus: If you hide a cache, you get to name it.

Who placed the cache: This is usually a cacher's alias.

Cache type: Caches can be traditional (a single container), multicaches (where clues in a single cache point to one or more other caches), or virtual caches (a cool location that doesn't have a container).

Cache coordinates: These record where the cache is located in latitude and longitude and UTM coordinates; these coordinates use the WGS 84 datum, so be sure your GPS receiver is set to this datum.

When the cache was hidden: The date the cache was originally placed.

Cache waypoint name: All caches in the Geocaching.com database have a unique name: for example, GC followed by the numeric order the cache was added to the database. You can use this to name a GPS waypoint for the cache location.

Difficulty: The difficulty rating is how hard the cache placer thinks the cache will be to find; 1 is easiest, and 5 is the most difficult. Whoever places the cache decides the difficulty level, based on some general criteria, such as how steep or rocky the terrain is or if you have to go through very much underbrush to reach the cache.

Terrain: The terrain rating is how difficult the terrain is. 1 is flat, easy, and level; 5 could be very steep and rocky with lots of underbrush and generally miserable travel conditions. Like with the difficulty rating, it's up to the cache placer to rate the terrain.

General description of the cache: Cache descriptions range from a couple of sentences to stories and history lessons about the location. Clues often appear in the description, so check it closely.

Map location of the cache: At the top of the page is a small state map from which you can take a general idea of where the cache is. A larger map with more detail appears at the bottom of the page. You can click the larger map and go to the MapQuest Web site, where you can zoom in on the cache site.

Hints: The cache placer can optionally add hints to help a geocacher narrow his search. The hints are in code.

Logged visits: This is a list of all the comments about the cache from people who have visited it and then logged Web site comments.

Some of these logged visit comments may contain spoilers, which are hints that may make it easier to find the cache. Although most cachers try not to spoil the fun for others, sometimes a clue accidentally appears.

Before heading out to search for a cache, check the last time someone found it. Although Geocaching.com tries to keep track of inactive caches, sometimes caches that have been stolen or kidnapped by space aliens slip through the cracks. If you're just getting started geocaching, go after caches that have had some recent activity. This increases the odds that they'll still be hiding where they're supposed to be when you go looking for them.

What to Do When You Find a Geocache

2007-08-05T14:59:00.000-07:00

Maybe you immediately stumbled on the geocache that you were looking for — or perhaps it took you a couple of painstaking hours, searching high and low to find a particularly devilishly hidden cache. It really doesn't matter in the end, though, because you succeeded and found the cache.

Congratulations! Savor the moment. There's definitely a sense of accomplishment when you discover a cache, and a little bit of child-like wonder as you open up the container to see the treasures inside.

Here are some of the things that you should do when you find a cache.

Opening the cache

When you find a cache, you're probably going to immediately want to open it to see what's inside. But before you do, take a moment and observe how the cache was placed and hidden. When you leave, the cache should appear as it did when you found it.

After you take a mental snapshot of how the cache was placed, you can open it. If water or dirt is on the lid, brush it off so it doesn't get inside the container when you open it.

Surplus military ammunition containers, fondly referred to as ammo cans or boxes, are popular geocaching containers. The metal cans are rugged and fairly waterproof. If you've never handled an ammo can before, you might spend a few minutes puzzling over how to open it. Here's how:

1. Find the latching mechanism on the narrow side of the ammo can.

2. Pull up the bottom of the latch.

The latches are usually tight, so you'll have to use some muscle. Be careful, though, because a tight lid can spring open and really whack your fingers good.

3. After the latch is released, push it up and away from the can.

4. Grab the handle on the top and pull up on the hinged lid to open the ammo can.

It might be a little snug, so again, you'll need to use some elbow grease. If it's really tight, use two hands with one hand on the lid handle and the other on the wire handle below the latch mechanism.

To shut an ammo can, do the reverse, first placing the top of the latch under a metal lip on the side of the can and then pushing down hard on the bottom of the latch.

Signing the logbook

Inside the cache container, you'll find a logbook. If the cache hider was on the ball, the logbook will be in a resealable, plastic food storage bag just in case the cache container somehow gets water inside. The logbook is a record of everyone who has found the cache. It's typically a small, spiral-bound notebook and has a couple of pens and pencils with it for signing in.

Flip through the logbook pages. It's fun to read about other geocachers' adventures and how long ago the cache was last visited. The more you geocache in a local area, the more names you'll start to recognize of fellow geocachers who have already visited a cache you just found.

After you've read the logbook, go to the last page and write your own entry. You should jot down the current date (the time is optional), a few sentences or paragraphs about your experiences finding the cache, what goodies you took and/or added, and then sign your geocaching alias. Be sure to mention any pets or fellow geocachers who accompanied you.

Some geocachers have rubber stamps made up with their alias that they stamp a logbook with. Others leave business card-size geocaching cards or add custom-made stickers with their alias and a personal logo to logbook pages.

Leaving and trading goodies

One of the guiding principles of geocaching is "take something, leave something." A geocache hider places a number of goodies in a container when a new cache is first started. As people find the cache, they exchange goodies that catch their eye with trade items they've brought with them on the search.

A signature item is a unique item that a geocacher leaves in a cache that's his or her way of saying, "I was here." It's sort of like the Lone Ranger and his trademark silver bullet. Signature items can be anything from a printed business card to a handmade clay sculpture. (To give you some ideas, the Michigan Geocaching Organization has a database of photos of signature items on its Web site.

If you take something from a cache, be sure to leave something. If you forgot your trade items, just sign the logbook. A number of geocachers just do this anyway and don't exchange goodies. To them, finding the cache is the exciting and rewarding part of the sport — they're not really interested in the contents of a cache.

If the treasures inside a cache all seem to be related, such as all Star Wars trinkets or different kinds of toy frogs, you've likely stumbled on a theme cache. If you don't have a trade item that goes with the theme, just sign the logbook and don't leave anything.

As you find more geocaches, you'll get a better idea of what kind of goodies people leave in caches — it can be just about anything that will fit in a cache container. There's always a lot of discussion within the geocaching community about what is appropriate and not appropriate to leave in a cache. Here are some quick guidelines:

Don't leave food in a cache. Food can attract animals as well as get smelly and messy, and plastic cache containers have been chewed through by critters eager to get at a tasty snack.

Never put anything illegal, dangerous, or possibly offensive in a cache. Geocaching has turned into a family sport, so be responsible.

Always exchange something of at least equal value for whatever you take. For example, don't purloin a cool antique coin and replace it with a cheap McToy.

Try to trade up. Trading up means leaving something in the cache that's better than what you take. Many times, caches start out with cool stuff but soon end up filled with junk (broken toys, beat-up golf balls, cheap party favors, and so on). Some self-righteous geocachers even take it upon themselves to remove anything from a cache that doesn't meet their personal quality bar. If you can, always trade up to make the finds more interesting for everyone.

Put yourself in the shoes of the next cache visitor. Would they find whatever item you just left interesting, intriguing, useful, or fun?

If the cache contains a Travel Bug (a to-be-taken-and-moved item that has a metal dog tag attached to it with a logo of a bug and a serial number), feel free to take the Travel Bug but only if you will remember to turn it loose in another cache that you find. Travel Bugs are meant for traveling. Go to geocaching.com and click the Track Travel Bugs link for detailed information on logging your Travel Bug find online and what to do next.

Heading home

After you sign the logbook and trade goodies (if you decided to), hit the road and head home — or perhaps try to find another nearby cache. Before leaving the cache, though, here is a checklist of things to do:

Make sure that the cache container is sealed. There's nothing worse than encountering a soggy, waterlogged cache because the previous finder didn't seal the lid tightly.

Put the cache container back where you found it. Make sure that it's in the same place and is hidden just as well as it was before you found it. It's not polite to relocate a cache to where you think is a better location.

Check the area for any of your equipment that's on the ground. You really didn't mean to leave your cellphone, GPS receiver, or compass as part of the cache — did you?

Cover your tracks. Sometimes, you'll find you don't even need to use your GPS receiver because there is a well-worn path right up to the cache hiding spot from so many geocachers who had previously found it. Do your best to tread lightly on the land and don't leave too many signs of your visit.

Use the track-back feature of your GPS receiver to follow your exact path back to your car. Or better yet, activate the waypoint that you set for your car when you started (but take a different route back to see some new sights).

Logging your find online

Most geocachers share their experiences with others by reporting their find online at the Geocaching.com site. When you get back to your computer (if you're a member of Geocaching.com), you can log your find on the Web site so the whole world knows you found the cache. Note: This is completely optional, and some geocachers prefer operating in stealth mode, keeping their discoveries and adventures to themselves.

Navigating Street Atlas USA

2007-08-05T14:51:00.000-07:00

The first thing that you notice about Street Atlas USA is that it doesn't use a familiar Windows, menu-based user interface. Instead, it uses a unique user interface with its mapping programs; after you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy to use.
Be sure to quickly browse through the PDF help file that comes with Street Atlas USA, which you can access by clicking the HELP button at the top of the window. Street Atlas USA has a rich set of commands, often offering you several different ways to perform a single task or operation.
Exploring the Street Atlas USA interface
The Street Atlas USA user interface is made up of four different parts. They include the
Map: The main map takes up most of the screen and is where all the action takes place. You'll find roads, bodies of water, parks, businesses and services, and other features displayed.
Control Panel: The Control Panel, located to the right of the map, contains commands for moving around in the map and zooming in and out.
Tab functions and options: Primary mapping commands and options are underneath the map in a series of tab items. For example, click the Find tab for searching commands and options.
You can shrink the size of the Tab area to show more map area by clicking the down-arrow icon in the right corner of the Tab area. If the Tab area has been minimized, clicking any tab will automatically expand it.
Overview Map: The Overview Map appears to the right of the Tab area and contains a small map with a larger overview of the main map that you're viewing.
You can customize the Tab area by clicking the HELP button in the window title and selecting the Tab Manager menu item. Use the Tab Manager to show, hide, or reorder the tabs.
Zooming in and out
With Street Atlas USA, you can view the entire United States and then zoom in for street-level detail. As you zoom in, the Data Zoom level, which is displayed at the top of the Control Panel, increases. Data Zoom level 2-0 shows the entire U.S., and Data Zoom level 16-0 shows the maximum amount of detail for a location.
Beneath the Data Zoom are three buttons that control zooming. These buttons, each with red arrows and pictures of the Earth, are from left to right
Zoom out three levels: Click the button with three arrows pointing away from Earth.
Zoom out: Click the button with the red arrow pointing away from Earth.
Zoom in: Click the button with the red arrow pointing toward Earth.
In addition to the zoom buttons, Street Atlas USA also uses Octave controls, which are up and down arrows next to the Zoom Data level value, allowing you to have finer control over zooming in and out. Click the up arrow to zoom out; click the down arrow to zoom in.
When you click an Octave control, notice that the Zoom Data level number changes. The number to the right of the dash next to the Zoom Data level is the octave value. For example, if the current Zoom Data level were 12-3, clicking the Octave down arrow would zoom in and change the value to 12-4. (Octaves range between 0 and 7, just like a diatonic music scale.)
You can also zoom in on a specific area by holding down the left mouse button and dragging down and to the right. This draws a rectangle and will zoom in to that area when you release the mouse button. You can zoom out by holding down the left mouse button and dragging up and to the left.
Moving around in Street Atlas USA
Mouse around a little inside a Street Atlas USA map. Notice that as you move the cursor around, information appears on the lower edge of the map. Anytime you move the cursor over a map feature, whether it's a road, river, or even some open space, a line of text appears at the bottom of the map with a brief description of the feature.
The numbers in parentheses that appear before a street name description show the range of street addresses in the general vicinity of the cursor. This is handy for getting a quick idea of addresses on a particular street.
You're probably going to want to see more map than what appears on the screen, and Street Atlas USA has several ways to move the map, including
Centering: Click a location to center the map over the cursor.
Dragging: Whenever you move the cursor to the edge of the map, it turns into a hand icon. Hold the left mouse button down and drag the map to scroll.
Arrow keys: You can use Alt+ the keyboard arrow keys to move the map in the direction of the arrow key you pressed.
Compass Rose: In the Control Panel, beneath the zoom tools, is the Compass Rose. This is a series of nine buttons with yellow arrows. Click a button to scroll the map in the direction of the arrow.
If you click the middle button in the Compass Rose, the previously viewed map is displayed. You can view up to the last 256 previously displayed maps by clicking this button.
Getting POI information
Getting Point of Interest information from Street Atlas USA is a snap. Here's how.
When you zoom in to level 15, you start to see POIs on the map, such as restaurants, gas stations, theaters, hotels, and other businesses and services. At Zoom Data level 16, symbols appear that let show you what the POI is. For example, a plate with a fork and knife means a restaurant.
If you don't know what a symbol means, click the HELP button in the window title and choose Map Legend from the menu to display a list of all the map symbols and their meanings.
When you move the cursor over a POI, the business or service name, its phone number (if available), and the type of POI are shown at the bottom of the map. You can also get more information about a POI (or any map feature) by moving the cursor over the POI, right-clicking, and choosing Info from the pop-up menu. Information about the POI appears in the Tab area, which you can view by clicking the Info tab.
Don't treat the POI database like an up-to-date phone directory. If you look up restaurants, gas stations, and other businesses in your city, you'll probably find a few listed that are out of business and others that are missing. Street Atlas USA and other map companies try to keep POI data as current as possible, but because businesses come and go so often, it's difficult to keep up with all the changes.

Ten Secrets about Jumping into Ham Radio

2007-08-05T14:48:00.000-07:00

In this article, you will find ten fundamental truths that can help even the rankest beginner keep the wheels turning during those first forays into ham radio. Keep these tips in mind and you'll be on your way to veteran status in no time.

Listen, listen, listen

Listening is the most powerful and important way to learn. Listen to the successful stations to learn their techniques. Listening to on-the-air contacts is called reading the mail. All ham communications are open and public — they can't be encrypted or obscured. Just turn on the radio and get a real-time seminar in any facet of ham radio communication techniques you care to try.

Buddy up

Find a friend who is learning the ropes like you are. Is there someone from your licensing class or club also getting started? Meet on the air and get used to using your equipment together. The best part is sharing in each other's successes!

Know your equipment

Hams joke about never reading the owner's manual, but don't believe it. Hams need to know their equipment. If a demo or tutorial is available to you, go through it. Practice adjusting the main controls or settings to observe the effects. Acquire at least a passing familiarity with even the most obscure controls. Keep the manual handy for quick reference, too.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations

The manufacturers want you to get the best performance and satisfaction out of their equipment, don't they? That's why they have recommended settings and procedures. Follow them until you are comfortable enough to optimize performance on your own.

Try different things

Don't feel like you have to stay with one mode or band or magazine or radio. Changing your mind and striking out in a different direction is okay. As you become more comfortable with ham radio, feel free to dabble in anything that catches your fancy. Sooner or later, you'll discover something that makes you want to dive in deeply.

Remember that nobody knows everything

Surround yourself with handbooks and how-to articles, magazines, Web sites, manuals, and catalogs. Use any reference available. If you're confused or not getting the results you expect, ask someone at a club meeting, on the air, or in an Internet forum for help. The oldest tradition in ham radio is hams giving other hams a hand. We're amateurs! We like to do it! Someone helped us, and we'll help you.

Practice courtesy

Behind every receiver is a person just like you. Polite terms like "Please," "Thanks," "Excuse me," and "Sorry" work just as well on the air as they do in person. Listen before transmitting and be flexible. If you encounter a rude operator, just go somewhere else or find something else to do — don't let tempers escalate on the air.

Join in

By definition, ham radio isn't a solitary activity. Ham radio is a lot more fun if you have some regular acquaintances. Being welcomed on the air into a round-table QSO or a local weather net is great. Ham radio welcomes kings and paupers equally and we're all on a first-name basis. The ham bands are your home.

Get right back in the saddle

So what if you called CQ and nobody responded? So what if you put up a new antenna and it didn't work? Get right back in the saddle and try again. You won't find any ham out there who has had instant success right off the bat, so don't get discouraged and give up. You worked too hard to get that license!

Relax, it's a hobby!

We all know the scary feeling of thinking every ham is listening whenever you get on the air. Hey, relax and don't worry about a mistake putting you on a hobby-wide blacklist. If you try something new and it doesn't work out, that's okay. Everybody fumbles now and then. Keep ham radio fun for yourself and do things you enjoy.

Operating Your Ham Radio in an Emergency

2007-08-05T14:44:00.000-07:00

You hope it never happens, but what if worse comes to worst? All emergencies are different, of course, so a step-by-step procedure is not going to be very useful. Here are some solid principles to follow instead, based on the Amateur Radio Emergency Service (ARES) Field Resources Manual.

When disaster strikes, do the following:

1. Check that you, your family, and your property are safe and secure before you respond as an emergency communicator (emcomm) volunteer.

2. Monitor your primary emergency frequencies.

3. Follow the instructions you receive from the net control or other emergency official on the frequency.

Check in if and when check-ins are requested.

4. Contact your local emergency communications leader or designee for further instructions.

Keep your head on straight and follow your training so that you can help rather than hinder in an emergency situation.

Reporting an accident or other incident

Reporting an accident is more common than you may think. Anybody who spends time driving can attest to the frequency of accidents. You can use ham radio to report accidents, stalled cars, and fires. Don't assume that people with cellphones are doing it. Know how to report an incident quickly and clearly.

When you have an emergency situation to report, follow these steps if your radio has an autopatch:

1. Turn up your radio's power to the limit and clearly say, "Break" or "Break Emergency" at the first opportunity.

If one station is weak, a stronger signal can get the attention of listening stations. Don't shy away from interrupting an ongoing conversation.

2. After you have control of the repeater or the frequency is clear, state that you have an emergency to report.

3. State clearly that you are making an emergency autopatch (a feature that allows you to make a telephone call from your repeater) and then activate the autopatch system.

If you cannot activate the repeater's autopatch, you may ask another repeater user to activate it for you. Or, on HF or VHF, you can ask for someone to make an emergency relay to 911. In this case, report all the necessary material and then stand by on frequency until the relaying station reports to you that the information is relayed and the call is complete.

4. Dial 911 and when the operator responds, state your name and that you are reporting an emergency via amateur radio.

5. Follow the directions of the operator from there.

If the operator asks you to stay on the line, do so and ask the other repeater users to please stand by.

6. When the operator finishes, release the autopatch and announce that you released the autopatch.

Whether you use a repeater's autopatch feature or relay the report by another repeater user, you need to be able to generate clear, concise information. To report an automobile accident, for example, you should know:

The highway number or street

The address or approximate mile marker of the highway

The direction or lanes the accident occurred

Whether the accident is blocking traffic

If injuries are apparent

If the vehicles are on fire, are smoking, or have spilled fuel

Similarly for fires and other hazards, the dispatcher wants to know where it is and how serious it appears. Don't guess if you don't know for sure! Report what you know, but don't embellish the facts.

Making and responding to distress calls

Before an emergency occurs, be sure you know how to make a distress call on a frequency where hams are likely to be listening, such as a marine service net or a wide-coverage repeater frequency. Store at least one of these frequencies in your radio's memories, if possible. Anyone, licensed or not, can use your radio equipment in an emergency to call for help on any frequency. You won't have time to be looking at net directories in an emergency. Do the following things when you make a distress call.

If you need immediate emergency assistance, the appropriate voice signal is MAYDAY and the appropriate Morse code signal is SOS (yes, just like in the movies).

"MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY, this is [your call sign]"

• Your location (latitude/longitude) or address of the emergency

• The nature of the emergency

• What type of assistance you need — such as medical or transportation aid

Repeat your distress signal and your call sign for several minutes or until you get an answer. Even if you don't hear an answer, others may hear you.

Try different frequencies if you do not get an answer. If you do decide to change frequencies, announce to what frequency you are moving so that anyone hearing you can follow.

If you hear a distress signal on the air:

Immediately find something to record information. Note the time and frequency of the call. To help the authorities render assistance as quickly as possible, note the following information:

• The location (latitude/longitude) or address of the emergency

• The nature of the problem

• What type of assistance he or she needs — such as medical or transportation aid

• Any other information that is helpful

Respond to the call. Say "[Give the station's call sign], this is [your call sign]. I hear your distress call. What is your situation?"

"[station's call sign] DE [your call] RRR WAT UR INFO?"

After you acquire the information, ask the station in distress to remain on frequency.

Call the appropriate public agency or public emergency number, such as 911. Follow the dispatcher's instructions to the letter. The dispatcher may ask you to act as a relay to the station in distress.

As soon as possible, report back to the station in distress. Tell them who you contacted and any information you have been asked to relay.

Stay on frequency as long as the station in distress or the authorities need your assistance.

Supporting emergency communications outside your area

What do you do in case of a disaster or emergency situation outside of your immediate vicinity? How can you be of assistance? The best thing you can do is make yourself available to the on-site communications workers, but only if called upon to do so. Because most of the important information from a disaster flows out, not in, you don't want to get in the way.

If a hurricane is bearing down on Miami, getting on the air and calling, "CQ Miami!" is foolish. The chance you have of actually rendering assistance are minimal and you stand a chance of diverting some actual emergency need from the proper authorities. Instead, support the communications networks that the Miami hams depend on. Check in to your NTS local nets to see if any messages need relayed to your location. Monitor the Hurricane Watch Net on 14.325 MHz and any Florida emergency net frequencies. Tune to the bands that support propagation to Florida, in case someone is calling for help.

You need to help information flow out from the disaster site, not force more in. Listen, listen, listen. That's good advice most of the time.